OCTOGENARIAN ODYSSEY

 

 

 

THE DOWNEAST CIRCLE CRUISE

 

 

 

A PERSONAL NARRATIVE AND GUIDE

 

 

 

 

Wanda White Stovall

 

 

 

PREFACE

Boating can be a wonderful adventure!  It provides multiple opportunities for accepting challenges, seeing new places and meeting interesting people It creates experiences that remain as great memories.  In 2014, we were ready for such an adventure!

For four years, we had cruised the East Coast of the United States from Florida to Maine.  Prior to that, we boated on the lakes near our home in Fort Worth, Texas.  This usually consisted of very brief journeys from the dock to spend time socializing with friends.  Seeking more excitement and challenges, we made several cruises in the San Juan Islands and the canals and rivers of the Netherlands with David, my husband as captain and myself as the navigator.  We loved leaving the confines of lakes and learning about tides, shoals, GPS, navigational aids and other ocean related matters.

In 2010, we sold our lake boat, a 1979 44’ Trojan and purchased a 1986 58’ Hatteras powerboat.  Like our previous boat, it bore the name The Bottom Line (David is a CPA) which epitomized our boating philosophy.  We were ready to leave the lake and begin experiencing the ocean and the diverse sites of the East Coast.  Our new boat was spacious, comfortable and most of all, heavy at 70,000 pounds with powerful twin 650 HP diesel Detroit engines that could withstand severe weather conditions if needed.  We happily spent our summer months cruising the ICW and the Atlantic coast.

Four years later, we planned another adventure to celebrate the pivotal year when both of us would be eighty and we would be married 60 years.  We wanted to make a long-distance cruise.  The Great American Loop Route was appealing but research told us our boat was too high to clear some of the bridges enroute.  Trips across the Atlantic (we were not THAT adventuresome) or through the Panama Canal (too far) were only briefly considered.  The Down East Circle Route was a perfect choice.  It would be more than 2000 miles from New York Harbor, through the Erie Canal, the St. Lawrence River, around Nova Scotia and down the New England coast to again enter New York Harbor.

Extensive preparations were made for the trip.  We heavily relied on information contained in Cheryl Barr’s book, The Down East Circle Route, the Maptech guide to the New England Coast and The Cruising Guide to the New York State Canal System. Neither of us were deterred by being eighty years old nor having limited knowledge of locks or Canadian waters.   We purchased navigational charts and GPS software for the journey.  As we intended to experience the sights on land along the way, we included a number of travel books that proved to be very helpful.  Except for brief visits by our son, we would make the trip alone. 

Octogenarian Odyssey is a guide to many wonderful places as well as a personal account with references to friends, family, dining and sightseeing experiences.  Our hope is that you will find it an incentive to enjoy the pleasures of boating and benefit from accepting its challenges and opportunities for adventure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

June 9-15                       Jersey City, New Jersey

Waving goodbye from the deck of The Bottom Line, we left our friends at Henderson Wharf Marina in Baltimore and began our long-planned journey.  We headed toward New York Harbor, the beginning of the Down East Circle Route. We were eager to see the fabled Erie Canal, visit again Montreal and Quebec and make the long trip around the Gaspe Peninsula to Nova Scotia, and then down the New England coast to “cross our wake” in New York Harbor. 

We made brief stops at Cape May and Manasquan, New Jersey before passing beneath the magnificent Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, the entry to New York Harbor.  Traffic rapidly increased with Staten Island ferries, Statue of Liberty Cruise boats, and many personal boats darting back and forth.  We docked easily at Liberty Landing Marina, adjacent to Liberty State Park, with its incredible view of the Statue of Liberty and the new Freedom Tower, being built on site of the fallen twin towers of the World Trade Center. Although across the Hudson River from Manhattan, we chose Liberty Landing Marina because it is shielded by a protective breakwater and slips do not receive the chop of the waves.  The ferry service to the Tribeca area of Manhattan docks adjacent to the marina and is frequent, inexpensive and reliable.

 A memorial has been built in the park listing almost a thousand names of New Jersey residents killed in the September 11, 2001 attacks.  Two long granite structures, clad with stainless steel, stand parallel on the lawn and are inscribed with the names of those killed.  One end opens to view the site of the tragedy across the Hudson and the other end views a large twisted girder from one of the destroyed buildings.  It is moving and emotional tribute.

Dave, our fifty-six-year-old son who has had considerable experience in piloting and navigation arrived to be with us for our journey through the Erie Canal.  Although we were confident in our decision to make the trip, our son wanted to personally “vouch” for our navigational abilities.  It was definitely a change to have our children worried about us!

We enjoyed a celebratory dinner at Becco, a Lydia Bastianich restaurant on 46^th Street between 8^th and 9^th Avenues.   The food was excellent, the service was attentive, and we had a great evening.  We returned to the marina and excitedly prepared for our early departure.

 

June 16                          Kingston, New York

We departed Liberty Landing Marina shortly after eight o’clock on a glorious sunny morning.  It was exciting to pass under the George Washington Bridge, leave the city behind and know our long-awaited journey had actually begun.  The Hudson River above Manhattan was bordered by small villages which belied the heavily populated areas hidden beyond by dense trees.  We saw little commercial traffic. The wind was minimal and the river was smooth despite the considerable current.

 

We were awed by the impressive sight of the U.S. Military Academy at West Point, a massive fortress-like structure that covers a huge expanse of the river bank and looks like a building from the medieval era.  It is a great example of architecture that exemplifies power and military might. Civilian docking is not permitted.

As we advanced up the river, we were met with considerable debris.  Dave was at the helm most of the day and skillfully dodged the tree trunks and branches that floated toward us.  Confident and capable, Dave enjoyed steering the boat, handling the lines, and navigating. He was great company and considerable help.

After an eight-hour cruise, we docked at Kingston City Marina.  The town area adjacent to the dock was bedecked with hanging baskets, beds of flowering plants, and statuary honoring those lost at sea. We dined at Ship and Shore, a recommended casual restaurant with excellent food and toasted the end of a great day on the water.

 

June 17                              Waterford, New York

Studying our charts, we realized we soon would encounter many low bridges.  It was time to take down the radar arch, canvas over the bridge helm area, and the antennas.  In planning for making the Down East Circle Cruise, we measured our boat from the waterline to the top of the windshield.  We had to be below 20 feet to safely clear the low bridges enroute. We measured 18 feet and 6 inches.  With our equipment lying on deck, we anticipated we would not have television or GPS until everything was replaced. To our surprise, the GPS continued to function well despite the lowered antennae.

After a five-hour journey, we passed through Albany, the capitol city of New York.  Massive state buildings were visible from the river.  We regretted time did not allow us to stop for a visit.  Here we encountered our first low bridge, one of many to come.  Showing only a few feet of clearance, I nervously stood on the bow to observe if we could pass without  the upper part of the boat slamming into the girders.  It was a tense moment as we began to glide forward.  We cleared with ample space to spare.

Within minutes we reached Troy, which is almost a suburb of Albany.  To our dismay, the Troy Marina listed in our guide book was no longer open.  Here we had planned to secure the required canal permit and add extra fuel in our tanks to lower the boat for better clearance under the bridges. 

Looking ahead, we saw a massive outpouring of water from the dam crossing the river.  All three of us studied the chart and consulted the GPS as we anxiously tried to locate the lock we knew was there.  Hidden by trees on a small island protruding into the river, the lock remained invisible until we were with several hundred yards of its massive doors adjacent to the dam.

Troy Lock is the #1 lock of the Erie Canal. It is a Federal lock and the others are owned and operated by the State of New York.  Dave had never been in a lock and he was awed by the experience of being inside a huge concrete box as massive torrents of water poured into the area. Unlike the many locks we encountered in Europe, the sides of Troy Lock were devoid of layers of green, slimy moss. The rough surface was clean but hazardous to fenders as they rubbed against the sides.

Almost as soon as we exited Troy Lock, we saw a large blue highway-like sign with arrows pointing right to the Champlain Canal and left to the Erie Canal.  The Champlain Canal is a more direct route than the Erie to the St. Lawrence Seaway but it tends to be narrow and shallow in many areas.  It would not be possible for The Bottom Line to navigate that route.  We turned to the left and immediately saw the small docking area at Waterford.

With confident maneuvering, David docked the boat between two others on the terminal wall.  The crews of the boats came forward to catch our lines and immediately engaged us in conversation.   The dockmaster proudly showed us his 1967 Hatteras tied to an adjacent dock.  Carefully maintained, it was a beauty with a dark blue hull and white superstructure.

 Waterford had an impressive visitor center near its small downtown area and several well-recommended restaurants.  We opted to dine onboard from our copious supply of provisions.   The charge for overnight docking with electricity was $1.00 per foot of the length of the boat.  We never before had such inexpensive fees.   

Several hours after going to bed, we were awakened by thunder and lightning.  We had been complacent about the weather and left open the doors and plastic flaps on the aft deck.   I rushed above and closed them just as the rain hit.  Our carpet on the aft deck was saved!  The storm continued unabated for several hours but we were securely docked and sustained no damage.  The Bottom Line received an excellent washing!

 

June 18                           Amsterdam, New York

Before leaving the next morning, we needed to buy our canal permit.  To expedite the process, Dave and I trekked up the hill about two blocks away to the office of the lockmaster.  The permit cost $55.00 and was valid for ten days.  That was the only charge for recreational boaters to utilize the four canal systems of New York.  It was an amazing bargain as the cost of operation for those massive locks and lengthy waterways must be considerable.

 

Dave has the inquisitiveness of a ten-year and when the lockmaster realized he had an appreciative audience, he gave us an extensive tour of the controls and mechanisms for the lock.  Much of the equipment was more than 100 years old but was clean, painted/polished to look like new.  Everything brass was polished each week.  The offices, grounds, and work areas were pristine.  We were impressed by the obvious pride the employees showed in their jobs.

We went through Lock #2 with some friends from the Waterford dock but passed them soon after exiting.  For a long distance, we were in the Mohawk River, which is often more than 200 yards wide and winds through communities with names of Revolutionary War heroes.  Using our charts, we were able to monitor distances between locks and heights of bridges and surge gates that crossed the river. 

We were alone in most of the locks and usually entered immediately without waiting.  Lockmasters were always courteous and helpful.  It was a challenge to ready the fenders and move them into the correct positions as the water came in and the boat rose. The stern would move toward the wall as it was caught in the current and Dave would race aft to secure an extra fender.

As the locks were large, we were not crowded even when accompanied by other vessels.  To our surprise, we encountered only recreational boats.  We saw no barges, tugs, or freighters in this area of the canal.

After exiting Lock #10, we stopped at Amsterdam.  Some of our new friends from Waterford were there, too.  All boats were tied to a terminal wall but exiting was not difficult as there was no tide.  The area was beautifully maintained with ample space to walk. Again, we enjoyed the easy comradery of fellow boaters.  The dockage fee was $1.00 per foot of the length of the boat.  Amazing! 

 

June 19                 Little Falls, New York

The weather gods were with us!  We awakened to a beautiful, sunny day with little wind.  Together with some of the other boaters, we left Amsterdam and headed toward Lock #11.  We were hoping to make Ilion our final destination for the day.  As the locks closed at 6:00 PM, we were on a tight schedule for we had planned a detour at Canajoharie to see the Arkell Museum.

 Docking was easy at Canajoharie.  We pulled into an empty space at a small riverside park.  Dave jumped to the dock, secured the lines and within minutes we were leaving the boat to walk two blocks into town.

Like some other small New England towns, many large businesses had closed or departed.  In Canajoharie, Beech-Nut Industries, most famous for its chewing gum, once occupied an impressive industrial plant near the center of town.  It now sat vacant and in need of maintenance.  The company’s manufacturing interests were elsewhere.  The town presented a brave, confident face with baskets of lovely flowers hanging from posts and pristine sidewalks fronting the few open stores and restaurants.

We were startled to see an Amish couple sitting in a small black buggy pulled by a horse.  Dressed in traditional black clothing in a style from the nineteenth century, the man wore a long beard and the woman a long dress and a simple bonnet.  We learned later that the area had a significant Amish population.  They owned large farms and were reportedly quite prosperous.  They had no electricity in their homes and no tractors or mechanized equipment on their farms.  When Hurricane Irene brought devastation and massive flooding to Canajoharie, the Amish worked long hours to help the community.  They wanted no pay but used their skills in building and carpentry to restore homes and businesses.

Lunch was at a local café that seemed more like West Texas than New England.  The setting was tacky, the waitresses chatty, and the food presentation decidedly plain.  Dave ordered the special of the day, chicken and biscuits, and received a huge plate covered in white gravy.  To our amazement, he declared it to be very good.  My veal parmesan was equally unattractive but was tender and flavorful.  David rhapsodized over his liver with onions and bacon.  He said it was much better than the same dish in New York eaten the week before that cost more than three times as much!

The Arkell Museum was a gift from the Arkell family, once the owners of Beech-Nut Industries and pillars of Canajoharie for several generations.  Housed in a lovely, modern building adjacent to the library, the museum’s permanent collection was small but noteworthy. One gallery presented a pictorial history of the Arkell family and Beech-Nut.  Besides being innovative in marketing and production, the Beech-Nut Company offered unusual amenities such as a display of art and playing of piano music in the company lunchroom.

Back on the boat, we resumed cruising with some of our friends from previous dockings at Waterford and Amsterdam.  As we exited Lock #14, we saw pulled to the side a beautiful 52’ trawler with a blue hull we had admired in Waterford.  We learned later the throttle reportedly jammed and the captain was unable to stop the boat’s motion.  Racing past other boats in the lock, it had slammed into the forward doors and sustained significant damage to the hull.

We barely made it to Lock #17 before it closed for the day.  We were awed when its massive doors opened and we saw the cavernous interior.  This lock has a lift higher than any other in the United States—more than 40 feet.  The tremendous amount of water pouring into the closed space created a turbulence which required careful attention to lines and fenders as the boat easily could be tossed onto the walls of the lock.  Dave and I made sure that did not happen to The Bottom Line by anticipating possible problems and moving quickly to adjust fenders.

We watched in horror as two children, approximately 10 and 12 years old, were allowed to scramble about on the bow of a small 21’ boat bouncing up and down with the force of the incoming flow.  If either had fallen into the murky water of the lock, it would have been difficult to rescue them.  They could have been swept beneath the boat or crushed between the boat and the wall of the lock.  Their life jackets would have been useless in the turbulence.  Fortunately, they survived the negligence of the adults onboard.

It was now too late to make it to Ilion, located past Lock #18.  We docked at the lovely municipal marina in Little Falls.  It was another opportunity to visit again with our boating friends.  Once more our dockage fee was $58.00! 

 

June 20-22                     Brewerton, New York

The beautiful, sunny weather was with us once more.  After re-fueling, we left early from Little Falls and reached the lock before opening time.  Could have slept thirty minutes more!  We were pleased our fuel consumption had been much less than anticipated.  At $4.00 per gallon, diesel was a major expense as our tanks held more than 1000 gallons.

The locks were a challenge as we seemed to be making fender and line adjustments for each one.  The turbulence kept pushing the stern toward the wall and David was constantly employing the bow thruster to protect the front of the boat.  Dave and I worked to keep everything safe.

Locks #21 and #22 were downlocking instead of uplocking.  The water in the lock goes out rather than coming in.  The turbulence was much less and we found it easier to handle the boat.  Leaving Lock #22, we encountered Oneida Lake, approximately 20 miles across and 4 miles wide.  We were warned that its small size was deceiving as it caught crosswinds that make for choppy water.  As we approached, we saw miles of white caps but Dave insisted they were no problem for a boat the size and weight of The Bottom Line.  He was correct.

We exited the lake at Brewerton, a small fishing/summer resort without frills.  Brewerton Marina had limited space for large vessels and we were docked adjacent to the fuel dock.  This gave us a great view of the river and its constant activity.  The marina was a rustic facility but it had a beautiful green lawn with blooming plants and the dockmaster/owner was very pleasant and helpful.  Best of all, they had a courtesy car we could use to go to dinner that evening and take Dave to the airport the following morning.

Leaving the boat securely docked, we drove about ten miles (few restaurants and little shopping is located near the marina) to a local seafood restaurant for a delicious farewell dinner.  Saturday morning, we left the boat at 7:15 AM.  We drove to the Syracuse International Airport, said good-bye to Dave, and were leaving the airport grounds at 7:43 AM.  Although our guide book had stated we would be minutes from the airport, we were amazed to reach it in such a short time. Dave was reluctant to leave and we hated to see him go.  It had been a wonderful five days with our son.  

The weather was cool and sunny.  We needed some R & R time after a busy week.  We were in the perfect place with a great view of the Oneida River from the aft deck.  Reading, work, and relaxing made for a great weekend.

 

June 23-25                               Oswego, New York

We left early from Brewerton and with some trepidation approached the next lock.  Dave was gone and the responsibility for the lines and fenders were now mine alone.  I positioned the fenders high and low on the starboard side and prepared to catch one of the lock’s hanging lines with my bow hook.  All went well.  Again, we were downlocking and there was much less turbulence than we had experienced when uplocking. 

We exited the lock to a beautiful scene.  The banks were lined with pine trees and lovely large homes, some with little gazebos in front (in Holland, they were called tea houses).  We were grateful for another sunny, beautiful day with little wind.  Large faded red barns with adjacent silos told of the rural history of this area.  Another reminder of days long ago was clothes lines with laundry hanging from them.  Flocks of Canadian geese were common sights and it was amusing to see them diving into the river with their rears sticking up like little white flags.

To our dismay, a tug pushing a small barge came into view before the next lock.  As commercial vessels have priority, we had to follow it all day.  The locks were not large enough to accommodate the tug, barge, and our boat, so we were forced to wait at each one.  Most waiting times were 15-20 minutes and required us to tie to a bollard on shore and keep the bow thruster engaged to make sure we did not hit the concrete walls.  Approaching the junction of three rivers (Seneca, Oswego, and Erie), we made ready to exit the Erie for the Oswego. We were hoping the tug and his cargo would continue on the Erie Canal but this did not happen.

Several smaller boats accompanied us in most of the locks and were not happy with our diesel fumes.  I was not happy with the fumes either.  I was subjected to a blast each time I moved toward the stern to adjust the fenders or pull on a line.  After nine locks, it was a relief to reach the port city of Oswego on the shore of Lake Ontario. We docked at the small Oswego Marina and decided it was a good place for more R & R.

The following day was an opportunity to put the radar arch, antennas, and canvas in place.  Brian, an affable young man from the marina shop came to help us.  We were assured there would be no more low bridges on our journey. Our satellite television reception was immediately restored and we gained improvement in the accuracy of the GPS. 

It continued to be stormy on Wednesday so we delayed our departure from Oswego.   Unfortunately, the storm had blown loose the canvas over the bridge.  There was a tear in it which would need repair.  Nothing could be done while it was wet. 

 

June 26-28                        Sackett Harbor, New York

As predicted, the rain was gone and the weather was sunny and warm.  Brian had other duties and could not help us with the canvas top for several hours.  We decided to do the job ourselves.  With Gorilla tape, we mended the tear and began to put the top in place.  Not an easy job for it required standing on small ladders and climbing onto the console.  Being very careful not to fall, we were able to finish much of the work needed to secure the canvas.  Brian eventually arrived and did the final tugging and zipping needed to finish the job.  Within a few minutes, we were ready to leave.

As David reversed the boat out of the slip into the narrow channel, the crew of a sailboat docked behind us at the fuel dock watched as the massive hulk of The Bottom Line came closer and closer.  Unaware that David was watching his stern on the GPS camera, they began to yell at us to stop.  In plenty of time, David went forward and made the turn needed to leave the marina.  The guys in the sailboat sheepishly waved and wished us a good trip.

Lake Ontario was a beautiful expanse of calm blue water. One of the five Great Lakes, Lake Ontario is 53 miles wide and 193 miles long with an average depth of 283 feet (in some places, it is more than 800 feet deep).  It is governed jointly by Canada and the United States.  We set the boat on autopilot, David took a nap, and I watched the GPS and worked on my needlepoint.  We saw only two small sailboats as we headed toward Sackett Harbor, New York.

Sackett Harbor was a battleground during the War of 1812.  Once a thriving boat building community and a naval base during World War II, it is today a small, picturesque village with many historical homes and buildings.  Our marina, Navy Point Marine, was a few blocks from the small downtown area. 

We were pleased to talk again with some Canadian friends whom we first met in Watertown.  Afterwards, we walked to Main Street and visited several of the shops and perused the menus of five or six restaurants.  Our galley was closed for the evening.  We would dine out.

We chose The Boathouse for a drink and appetizers.  Their spicy calamari with Thai sauce was outstanding.  In an authentic boathouse from the past century, the restaurant’s interior was sleek and modern.  We enjoyed sitting on their spacious deck overlooking the harbor (and our boat docked across the way).

We chose a charming, little place for dinner with outside dining in a garden-like setting.  Ferns, hostas, blooming plants, and tall trees with overhanging branches made Tin Pan Galley the most appealing place in town.  Reviews and recommendations were excellent.  We were seated immediately but within a few minutes, all the available tables were filled and the small bar area was packed with waiting diners.

To our delight, a musician with a bank of electronic equipment began to play the kind of music we enjoy.  He was adept in performing the arrangements of Lou Rawls, Bobby Darrin, Frank Sinatra, Neil Diamond, Jim Reeves, and others.  The weather, ambiance, and music were wonderful complements to the excellent food.  

Friday was a good day for postponed projects.  The hatch to the bridge from the aft deck leaked badly and had become discolored.  David brought out his “Home Depot” of supplies and tools and began to work.  Not satisfied with a simple cosmetic fix, he decided to do major sanding, varnishing, and replacing the worn seal with a new one.  This was not a job to be completed soon.

Our supply of wine was depleted and since Sackett’s Harbor sells spirits only in restaurants, we ordered a case from a vendor in Watertown.  This was delivered promptly by a gracious young man who refused a tip!  With cheeses, olives, bruschetta, and fruit, we were ready to entertain.

Our Canadian friends soon joined us.  Michael was a retired charter accountant (similar to a C.P.A. in the U.S.) and Sylvia, his wife, was a retired teacher.  They lived in Canada but often visited for long periods in England.  Michael was originally from Wales and retained a lovely accent.  They planned to buy a longboat, commonly used on canals and waterways in England, and live on it in that country for part of each year.  This year they would summer on their present sailboat in Sackett’s Harbor.

We were also pleased to be joined by Tanya Binford, who had arrived in the marina a few hours earlier.  Tanya had been with us at Amsterdam and amazed everyone by her expertise in solo handling her 25’ Ranger tug.  Tanya was a psychiatric nurse from Tucson who resolved several years ago to buy a boat and complete The Great Loop.  She was fulfilling a dream! 

The locks on the Erie Canal had been a formidable challenge for her.  After being battered and bruised on several of the earlier ones, she talked to the lockmasters and they gave her “an easy lift” with much less turbulence.  Tanya was determined to continue her journey and we were confident she would do so.   (Note:  Tanya has since published a book on her Great Loop journey with the title of Crossing the Wake.  She refers to us as “an elderly couple” but we have forgiven her!) This evening proved again that people were the most interesting parts of our travels.

Awakened to a beautiful sunny day, we left the marina for a walk to the nearby site of a battleground during the War of 1812.  It is now a lovely expanse of green lawn studded with tall trees overlooking the bay. Several stone monuments commemorate the historical events in the area.  As we returned to the boat, we noticed the white gazebo in a park overlooking the harbor was filled with a small crowd.  Ahead of us on the sidewalk, we saw four girls dressed alike followed by a bride and her escort.  As we came closer, we realized this was a most unusual wedding party.  The dresses were made of a shiny pink camouflage printed fabric.  The bride's white dress included a long train of this fabric.  The flower girl was dressed in similar fabric in blue.  The men in the party had suits of black and green camouflage denim fabric with red ties.  ALL members of the wedding party wore FLIP-FLOPS.  It was a Duck Dynasty wedding in New York!!!!!

The afternoon of the following day was sunny but cooler.  I walked up the small hill to the battleground site and attended an afternoon band concert.  I joined a group of approximately 500 people seated in folding chairs or on blankets shaded by many tall trees.  The band consisted of twelve people, men and women of varying ages, who played a great selection of swing and jazz music.  The acoustics were excellent.  It was a free two-hour concert and the band was obviously a favorite of the crowd who enthusiastically applauded each number. 

 

June 30-July 6                                 Clayton, New York

We had read glowing reports of Alexandria Bay, New York and were eager to dock there.  Many, many calls to marinas in that town proved to be frustrating.  No space for us.  It was near the July 4^th holiday and all slips for boats of our size were booked months ago.  A fellow boater in Sackets Harbor told us he liked Clayton better and suggested we go there.  More phone calls and finally I was successful in booking space at Pier 225.  Brian, the dockmaster, assured me we would have plenty of depth for docking although our chart showed only three feet. Heavy rains during the spring months had raised the water level of the river.

Our brief journey to Clayton was delightful.  Small villages and lovely homes presented an idyllic scene.  We easily found our marina, tucked into a small cove on the southern side of the town.  Brian provided us with excellent dockage that included a great view of the harbor from the aft deck.  We had no problems with depth.  Pier 225 was family-owned and Brian singlehandedly ran the place. 

We walked about six blocks to the main area of Clayton and found it to be a very lovely and active little town.  Shops, galleries, and restaurants were plentiful and there was considerable evidence of progress.  Clayton has not been bastardized by modern architecture. New structures blend in well.  The Victorian homes are not grand but are attractive with well-kept lawns and blooming plants. Three new restaurants and a beautiful inn were open or slated to open soon.  We spent time perusing the large gallery with multiple nautical items, walked to the town dock with multi-colored Adirondack chairs lining the wall, and checked out menus for a late lunch/early dinner. Crosswinds was our choice.  I had a delicious veal chop with a cherry-balsamic sauce and David enjoyed grilled haddock. 

On Tuesday, we took a tour boat from Clayton to the Alexandria Bay area and Boldt Castle.  The boat was a covered pontoon with more than ample room for the ten passengers on board.  The narrator of the tour was excellent and gave historical information mixed in with local legend and gossip.  Going down the river, we crossed to the Canadian side through The Needle, a narrow passage which was the site of dangerous shoals which had wrecked numerous small crafts.  A bald eagle was spotted high in a tree and numerous ospreys were seen nesting on top of markers.  We saw many lovely small homes and a significant number of magnificent large homes.  For years, this area had been the summer favorite of scores of Canadians and Americans. Many homes have been owned by generations of the same family

Boldt Castle is on Heart Island directly across from Alexandria Bay and is a major tourist attraction.  Built by George Boldt, a hotel magnate, as a gift to his beloved wife, Louise, the castle remains unfinished more than 100 years since building began.  When his wife died suddenly, Boldt sent word to stop all work.  The workers laid down their tools and left the island.  Boldt never returned there and the building deteriorated for years.

 In the 1970’s the State of New York bought the site for $1.00 with an agreement the castle could be restored but never finished.  All monies from tourism to the site are dedicated to the restoration work.  To date, more than $47,000,000 has been spent to restore the buildings and enhance the grounds with lush plants and flowers.  Furnishings have been added to the house and it is easy for visitors to imagine how wonderful the finished house would have been.

On the July 3, we took a two-hour tour by car of the area around Clayton.  Our driver, a friend of Brian’s, was a delightful guide.  A highlight of the drive was our visit to Thousand Island Park.  Begun more than 100 years ago as a Methodist summer vacation place, it is today a unique community of mostly early twentieth century homes of Victorian architecture.  With large trees, expansive lawns, and few automobiles, it is an enclave of families that come year after year.  The original wooden tabernacle retains its sawdust floor and open setting.  Nearby Alexandria Bay was crowded, touristy, and loud.  We were glad we had chosen to stay in Clayton.

That evening we had a wonderful view of Clayton’s great fireworks show from our aft deck.  The following day, we joined Brian and two friends on the dock for drinks and dinner.  Brian cooked juicy, tender ribs for us and we provided the sides.  The weather was cool and the sunset was memorable.  It was a great way to celebrate our nation’s birthday!

July 5 was our final day in Clayton and our last opportunity to visit the renowned Antique Boat Museum.  Housed in beautiful green and beige buildings near our marina, the museum is first class in every way.  We arrived in time to tour the huge houseboat built by George Boldt (and later owned by two others) with eleven bathrooms, servant quarters, a dance floor, a Steinway piano, and nine bedrooms.  There was no engine.  This massive boat would be towed by a tug from place to place.  The last owners used it for a summer home for almost fifty years before donating it to the museum.

The museum had an amazing collection of wooden boats.  One entire building housed racing boats, another a boat building shop, another historic canoes, and another fabulous touring boats for the wealthy.  Very popular, the museum is a mecca for those who enjoy admiring the craftsmanship and innovative techniques of early boat builders.

 

July 6-7                                                  Brockville, Ontario

More beautiful weather for a short cruise to Brockville, at the end of the Thousand Islands area of the St. Lawrence River and our first stop in Canada.    Our journey took us past Alexandria Bay, Boldt Castle, and the lovely homes on the American side of the River.  Before reaching Brockville, we passed Singer Castle on Dark Island, built 100 years ago by Commodore Francis Gilbert Bourne as a luxurious hunting lodge.  Opened to the public, it is reported to be beautifully maintained and furnished.  Docking facilities were too small for The Bottom Line so we saw only the exterior.

The marina at Brockville was large and we were docked on a long wall next to a park area.  Here we checked into Canadian customs by telephone.  They wanted detailed information about our boat but did not ask for passport numbers!  When asked if we had liquor on board (customs regulation is two liters for each person), David replied we had a “stocked bar.”  That answer was sufficient.

Only a few blocks from the marina, the downtown area was demonstrating an economic struggle with many empty storefronts.  Several restaurants, a few stores, and a number of professional offices were near the historic city hall and courthouse. Magnificent churches reflected a once prosperous and viable community.  Downtown had been impacted by a large mall built on the other side of Brockville.  There was evidence of new residential building in the marina so future prospects may be positive.

 

July 8-9                                         Prescott, Ontario

Following a night of thunderstorms, the weather cleared and we departed Brockville for our next port, Prescott.  Continuing our leisurely cruise to Montreal, we planned several stops along the way.  Prescott was less than two hours from Brockville so our journey was brief and timed perfectly to avoid the showers that arrived later in the afternoon. 

The small marina presented a challenge for docking The Bottom Line. (Note: Our 58’ boat proved to be too large for many small marinas.  Boats less than 40’ are accommodated best.) With excellent dock help and David’s skillful piloting, we had no mishaps as we turned into the narrow channel and found our waiting slip.  The marina was located in a small city park, beautifully landscaped with plants and trees.  A small amphitheater was in the park and the schedule indicated it was a popular summer entertainment venue. 

Downtown Prescott was even more depressed than Brockville.  Most shopping and restaurants had located elsewhere.  It was in sharp contrast to the beautiful marina area.  The people we met in Prescott were friendly and offered to take us by car to buy groceries or supplies.  We needed neither but appreciated their graciousness.  They appeared eager to talk to the “traveling Texans” and we welcomed the opportunity to learn more about their country.

 

July 10-13                                Morrisburg, Ontario

We left early on another beautiful day to cruise to Crysler Park Marina, located five miles downriver from Morrisburg in a national park.  We were assigned an end slip next to the river and had an unobstructed view of the boats and ships going past.  It was a lovely setting with trees lining the banks, flocks of Canadian geese swimming near us, and well-maintained facilities.  There were no nearby shopping amenities, but we were stocked.

Next to our slip was a large vessel with cobalt blue siding and an ornate wooden canopy-like cabin. It reminded us of a barge to transport notables on the Nile.  The bow was a spacious deck adorned by two massive carved heads of Indian chiefs.  Painted on the stern was the name Le Grand Charroi.

We soon met the owner and her friend who were friendly, funny, and very engaging.  They had recently bought the vessel and were restoring and repairing it.  It would be their summer home.  They had not attempted to take it out into the river for a cruise.  It would surely be a great attraction once they did so!

 Crysler Farm, once located nearby and now submerged by the building of the St. Lawrence Seaway and its massive dams, was the site of a decisive battle in the War of 1812 between the British and U.S. armies.  The U.S. sought to capture Canadian forts to thwart military assistance to British soldiers in New England.  Although the U.S. outnumbered their foes, the British won the battle and caused the Americans to retreat from Canada.  Today, this battle is re-enacted daily in Upper Canada Village, comprised of numerous buildings and homes from the nineteenth century that were saved from the deluge.  We spent a day exploring the site, enjoying the crafts and skills demonstrations, and dining at the Willard Hotel, once a popular inn for travelers.  Dressed in nineteenth century clothing, the waitstaff was very pleasant and the food, simple, basic fare, was delicious.

. 

July 14-15                      Cornwall, Ontario

We arose early for departure shortly after 7:00 AM.  We had been told pleasure craft were admitted to Eisenhower Lock at 10:00 AM and 1:00 PM.  There was no information available on the assigned telephone number, the internet, nor in our books as to an exact schedule. We arrived at the entrance to the lock at 9:00 AM and followed check-in instructions. 

We docked the boat in an assigned area (without help), and then I walked on a swaying pontoon, and climbed the stairs to a call station.  We were told we would have a very brief wait as the lock would soon be opening to emit upriver boats.  I quickly re-boarded and we returned to the lock entrance area.

After entering the lock, we found a completely different docking procedure from the Erie or Oswego locks.   With assistance from lock personnel (thankfully), we tied to bits that lowered as the water receded more than 35 feet.  The turbulence was considerable and it was very difficult to maintain control of the lines and keep the fenders in place to protect the sides of the boat.   

Only a short distance from Eisenhower Lock, we entered Snell Lock (there was no preliminary check-in) and encountered a similar situation.   Both locks are massive for they were built to accommodate the large commercial tankers that come through enroute to the Great Lakes or the Atlantic.  We were alone in both locks and were spared the anxiety of possibly hitting another vessel if our lines (or theirs) became too loose.

David and I agreed the check-in procedure for the locks was highly inefficient and very difficult.  All information needed could have been transmitted by electrical signs (already in place) or by speakers.  We were fortunate there was no wind when we had to dock.  The pontoon was quite unsteady and would have been exceedingly dangerous in a good wind.  I would have had to crawl on my hands and knees to maintain my balance!

Before leaving Crysler Park, I had consulted with another boater about the route to Cornwall, our next stop.  Comparing charts, he and I agreed we could take the shortcut through Polly’s Gut (a disgusting name!) without difficulty.  One of my books mentioned a 24’ bridge in the area but neither of us could find such a barrier on our charts. There was a very high International Seaway Bridge noted but nothing else.  I called the marina in Cornwall, described my intentions, and asked if the bridge was a problem.  I was assured it was not.  WRONG!!!! 

After exiting Snell Lock, we turned into Polly’s Gut and encountered the strongest eddies we had ever experienced.  Fortunately, the depth was sufficient and we were able to avoid most of them.  After several miles, we were ready to make a starboard turn to Cornwall when we saw the International Seaway Bridge and hiding behind it was the lower span we had hoped to avoid.  Our chart had been accurate. We had to reverse and go to Cornwall via the longer route.

Cornwall Marina was a beautiful place.  Located in a spacious park near the downtown area, we had lovely views in all directions.  After a good rest, we ventured about six blocks to the nearby mall (a small but active place), shopped and walked several more blocks to a recommended restaurant.  Schnitzels was a casual place with a good menu.  We dined on an outside patio and enjoyed veal Marsala that was truly outstanding.

We loved Cornwall.  The downtown area was charming, the marina was wonderful, and the people were friendly and helpful.  We enjoyed sitting on our deck and watching the flocks of geese and robins, larger and fatter than those we see in Texas, gather on an adjacent hill. 

 

July 16                                     Montreal, Canada

Weather forecasts were favorable for moving downriver.  We were about 70 nm from Montreal.  This distance was an easy day of cruising for us; however, we would have to go through four locks and some delay could be expected.  We decided to make an early departure to ensure we would reach Montreal well before nightfall.

The morning was clear, cool, and beautiful.  We left Cornwall before 8:00 AM on calm water.  Our GPS indicated at our normal speed we would reach our destination before 3:00 PM.  We saw many impressive homes on the shores of the river.  The area appeared to be economically prospering.  Two large manufacturers of aluminum were located nearby, the large Port of Cornwall was active, and the river was a conduit for trade.  We enjoyed our leisurely cruise and reached Beauharnais Lock a few minutes before noon. 

Beauharnais Lock was actually two locks, both downlocking.  As instructed, we docked and checked in by telephone.  Payment was by credit card and the ticket would be given to an attendant in the lock.  We were advised on the light board we would be delayed until 3:30 PM.  As we waited, another smaller boat with three young men docked near us.  One of them, Michael, came over and engaged David in conversation.  He told us when the lock opened, we would go first, they would follow and then tie to our starboard side.  The lock was huge and we could not see the necessity for rafting when there would be plenty of room for us to be placed individually along the wall.  Michael stated this was standard procedure for this lock.  At        2:30 PM, a large freighter emerged from the lock and we were allowed to enter.

Michael was correct.  We were required to raft with their boat on our starboard side.  As the stern of our boat tended to move out with the descent of the water and I was not strong enough to prevent it, we were not a good anchor for the other vessel.  Michael easily boarded our boat and came to my aid.  He remained with us through the next lock (which we entered immediately) and again helped us.  He and his friends were enjoying a day of vacation and he insisted it was great fun to assist us and see our boat.

We were now at 4:00 PM and had to make a decision to either stop at a marina or continue.  The weather was great, we had only two more locks, commercial traffic had been light, and we thought we could easily make our destination in three hours—well before dark.  We would continue.  Soon we were seeing the cityscape of Montreal in the distance.

The approach to the final two locks was by a long, long canal with a speed limit of 6 knots.  We slowed our speed and reached St. Catherine Lock just in time to see the green light turn to red and the massive doors closing.  Michael had told us there was no necessity to check in or buy a ticket so we were spared the difficulty of docking the boat.   We could pay cash to the attendant. 

We waited, waited, and waited.  Eventually, we saw the silhouette of a massive bridge rising above the lock doors.  We waited, waited, and waited.  As there was no place to attach a line, we frequently had to employ our bow thruster to remain in position. Two hours after our arrival, an enormous supertanker slowly emerged and we finally were allowed to enter.

Unhappy with the movement of the stern of the boat in the locks, David and I devised a different plan.  Although the stern cleat on our boat only can be reached by bringing a line through the small opening on the aft deck, it would be a more stabilizing location for the rear dock line than the midship cleat.   After catching the forward line, I would quickly secure it to the bow cleat and then rush to the aft deck to pull through the rear line.  David would take my place and I would return to the bow, untie the line, and hold it tight as the boat descended.  To our delight, this plan worked perfectly. We were able to keep the stern in place near the wall.

We were subjected to another wait at St. Lambert’s Lock, the final one on our journey.  Now it was after 8:00 PM and the sun was starting to set.  I took advantage of the delay, went to the galley, put chicken breasts in the oven, and prepared some vegetables.  We would be too tired to go out for dinner once we were in the marina.  Frequent use of the bow thrusters kept us in position as we waited.  Forty minutes later, another tanker came out of the lock and we were admitted.  Employing our new procedure, we easily handled the boat as it slowly descended.

It was now dark.  We had never run The Bottom Line at night and had never been in the huge basin of Montreal during the day or night.  There was a strong current and turbulence made it difficult to consult our chart.  The GPS was our only guide but to our dismay, the display began to dim.

 We could see the lights of the city in the distance as we neared a huge entertainment park on an island across from our turn in the river.  As we passed, we noted a sea of lights from boats that appeared to be anchored in front of the park.  Within a minute, we learned why they were there.  Fireworks began to explode overhead.  It was an impressive show but we did not want to be distracted as we dodged the many boats and sought to maintain our course.

 As we slowly moved forward, we were hailed by a police boat and told to stop.  No one was allowed to leave until after the fireworks.  At this point, David and I started to laugh! We were determined not to be frustrated by the events of the day!  This was an adventure!  It was now past 10:00 PM.  During the delay, I consulted the manual for the GPS, found the solution for our display problem, and easily fixed it.  Now we could find our marina!

The fireworks ended after thirty minutes.  With hundreds of other boats, we began to move through the darkness down the river.  In addition to the current, there was considerable turbulence from the boat traffic.  David becomes very calm when there is a crisis and he skillfully and patiently steered our boat through the mayhem.  Using the famous Heritage Clock Tower as our marker, we were able to determine the exact location of our marina.

Vieux Port of Montreal is nestled between commercial docks used by tour boats and cruise ships.  We had remained in contact with the marina staff and they were expecting our arrival.  We were assigned an excellent slip next to the back wall of the marina.  It was now twenty minutes until midnight.  It had been a challenging day but we were safely in Montreal, our final port for this first part of our journey. Dinner and several glasses of wine were celebration for our achievement.

 

July 17-19                                        Montreal, Canada

We were slow to move after our long and stressful day coming into Montreal.  We left the boat as the afternoon began to cool and walked up the hill to explore the area.  We were at the “front door” of Vieux Montreal.  People were everywhere.  We walked the old streets and looked into the small cafes, bars, and shops.  Notre Dame Basilica was nearby and we admired its French Gothic architecture and massive size which dominated the square.

We chose to have a glass of wine and an appetizer before returning to the boat for dinner.  Jardin Nelson, a local favorite, had a lovely terrace area. It was a great choice for people watching and delicious food.  We enjoyed bruschetta of hearty bread rubbed with olive oil, lightly toasted, and served with chopped tomato and capers.  Food is always an important part of travel!

We needed charts for the downriver part of our journey from Quebec to Halifax.  Although I had searched on-line and in various nautical supply sources, I could not find them.  Several boaters in Canada recommended McGill Maritime Services, located about eight blocks from our marina.   It was an easy walk to this small but exceptionally well-stocked shop.   No chart books for our destinations were available so each chart had to be bought separately.  It was expensive but necessary.  The GPS had proven to be reliable but we were more comfortable having chart backup.

While I was gone, David met a fellow boater, Wayne, who owned a ship repair service in Montreal and kept a boat at the marina.  He invited us to attend a dock party that evening with some of his friends.  Wayne was a gracious host when we arrived at his party a little after seven.  Two chairs were set up and waiting for us.  His brother, an acoustic guitarist, provided an hour of very good music.  Everyone on the dock was sitting on their boats enjoying the music and the cool weather.   It was a fun scene.

At a break in the music, we left to walk to the Basilica to attend a special light and sound show.  Drapes had been placed around the huge interior.  These served as screens for the colored lighting and projected scenes depicting the early history of the city.  Alternately, the lights played off the intricate woodwork onto the three levels of the sanctuary.  It was a great way to see this incredible building which had been the site for memorable concerts by Luciano Pavarotti, Celine Dion and others.

Dinner was at Versa, a beautiful little restaurant near the boat.  The cuisine was novelle French and was very, very good.  As it was late, we dined lightly.  When we returned to the marina, Wayne’s party was still going strong.  We listened to the great music from the aft deck of our boat. 

Saturday was sunny but a nice breeze kept it cool.  We walked several blocks and caught a Gray Line tour bus.  The guide was very knowledgeable and the tour was well-planned.  Sitting on the top tier of the bus, we better were able to see the intricate details of the many buildings.  Montreal has a wide variety of architectural styles, traditional French, Victorian, Beaux Artes, Twentieth Century Modernism, and Oriental.  The city was very clean with little graffiti and almost no trash.

A trip to Mont Royal took us to a large cemetery with more than a million graves and a huge public park with numerous facilities for sports and entertainment.  Everywhere people were spread on the grass listening to music and sunbathing. Long, cold winters encourage staying outside as much as possible when the weather is pleasant.

A major attraction of Montreal is the massive St. Joseph Oratory on the apex of Mont Royal.  It is a place for prayer and a pilgrimage site for those who seek healing and blessing.  Masses are held there but no funerals, weddings, or christenings.  Mexican workers, who emigrate to the Montreal area each summer and fall for harvesting, come there on weekends to seek special blessings on themselves and their families.

Returning to the downtown area, we left the tour at The Village.  The main street of the area was covered with a canopy of pink plastic balls.  Known as the Gay part of the city, the Village has a diverse group of shops, restaurants, and residents.  It was entertaining and shocking at times to witness the bizarre dress and behavior of some of the strollers in the area.

Risa is one of the largest and most upscale of the underground malls which give Montreal’s citizens an opportunity to shop in comfort during the long and very cold winters. With a spacious center atrium dominated by a fountain, numerous walkways led in every direction.  There are shops, cafes, professional offices, and many other businesses located underground and accessible from exterior entrances.  Although the weather was lovely outside, there were many people in the underground mall area.

 

July 20                                               Montreal, Canada

The following morning, I left David to go to the Musee des Beaux Arts, the largest fine arts museum in Canada.  The Musee, once located in an impressive Beaux Arts style building, now has its entrance in a contemporary glass and steel structure across the street.  Designed by Moshe Safdie, a noted architect, it is a light-filled and welcoming space.  The main lobby, an atrium in black and white with accents of red was outstanding.

The collection was extensive and varied.  There were some great hits and a few not so much.  Everything was beautifully installed in galleries with complementing colors.   There were many excellent paintings by Flemish and Netherlandish artists.

 A tunnel beneath the street led to the galleries for contemporary paintings, sculpture, and design.  Above these galleries, one enters the foyer of the original museum with its grand staircase leading to the second floor with spaces for special exhibitions.  These spaces remain in their traditional state except for lighting improvements.

Walking toward the Vieux Port and the boat, I stopped at the impressive Cathedrale Marie Reine-du-Monde, a scaled-down version of St. Peter’s in Rome.  Mass was being conducted so I quietly entered and observed.  The interior was a beautiful combination of creams and apricots with gold accents.  It contained numerous paintings and sculptures but avoided seeming crowded or gaudy.  The dome was 249 feet tall, coffered, and light from the lantern atop illuminated the altar. 

 

July 21-24                            Montreal, Canada

Taking advantage of the little time remaining in Montreal, I visited Chateau Ramezay, the oldest house in Montreal, which conveniently was located at the top of the hill above Vieux Port and our marina.  Built in 1705 as a private residence, it was considered to be the grandest house in Canada at the time. 

Through the years, it has been renovated many times to be governmental offices, a school, and now a museum depicting early life in Montreal.  In 1776, Benjamin Franklin came here and tried to convince the Canadians to join with the colonials against the British.  Obviously, he was not successful.  Franklin later stated, “It would be easier to buy Canada rather than fight for it.”  Perhaps we missed a great opportunity!

There were some excellent exhibitions in the museum:  A 1901 automobile made in France, a gibbet, a bizarre metal device to suspend dead bodies for display after being hung (a means to discourage crime), and an explanation exhibit for transforming beaver pelts into fashionable top hats for gentlemen.  Two rooms represented a French salon with the addition of gorgeous paneling and Baccarat chandeliers, once in a Parisian mansion.  Behind Chateau Ramezay was a large garden space with flowers and vegetables.  It was a quiet and lovely oasis in the middle of a busy tourist area.

The following day, we headed to the airport.  David was enroute to Texas and I was flying to Belgium to join the Kimbell Art Museum docent group for a canal trip through Belgium.  There would be multiple art museum visits and a great opportunity to see Belgium from its scenic rivers and canals.   Marina staff in Montreal had agreed to watch over our boat.

 

August 4-5                           Montreal, Canada

Great to return to the boat!  I had a wonderful trip to Belgium and David enjoyed being with the family in Texas and going to Las Vegas to celebrate the birthday of long-time friend.  We were both ready to come back to The Bottom Line.  With the exception of spiders on the exterior, all was well.

We were pleased to have a surprise visit from a fellow boater from Fort Worth and two of his friends.  A very experienced sailor, our friend Robert Williams also had planned to complete the Down East Circle Cruise.  He left New York a few weeks after we did in his late model Selene powerboat. Enroute to Cornwall, while going beneath the low bridge over Polly’s Gut, he hit a submerged piece of a discarded steel girder and severely damaged the hull.   The boat had been left for repairs in a facility about fifty miles from Montreal.  He would leave for Fort Worth the next day to await completion of the work.   We were saddened to hear about his experience and empathized with his disappointment.

 

August 6                                         Trois Riviere, Canada

We left Montreal with blue skies and sun.  We were ready to move on.  After passing by numerous commercial docks, we finally were in the main channel of the St. Lawrence River. The shore line was banked with a variety of palatial homes and small residences.  The river was crowded with fishermen and commercial tankers.  The scenery gradually changed from level to hilly.  Navigation was straightforward to Trois Riviere.

Our marina at Trois Riviere was behind a breakwater.  We docked with excellent help.  One of the guys owned a mobile home in Donna, Texas where he went every winter.  He was eager to talk (in broken English) with “fellow Texans.”  The town required a taxi ride.  We had no need to leave the marina so we spent a pleasant evening on the boat. 

 

August 7                               Quebec City, Canada

The morning sun was receding behind the clouds as we prepared to depart Trois Riviere.  As our dock help was removing the ladder from the side of the boat, she dropped into the water a mounting connection critical to the ladder installation.  Unfortunately, we had already utilized our spare.  This meant we could not install the ladder on our preferred starboard side and replacement would cost almost a hundred dollars.  “Accidents will happen,” we graciously stated but we were not happy.

Rain began as we left the marina.  It was light but visibility was impaired.  We were riding a good current which increased our speed about 3 nautical miles.  Again, we noted the shores were lined with lovely homes, small villages, and impressive steepled churches. 

After several hours, the rain stopped and the skies gradually began to clear.  Richelieu Rapids is an area where the current dramatically increases.  Our usual 10 nm speed quickly became more than l5 nm without any change in engine speed.  With our powerful engines, David easily maintained control as we sped along down the river for several miles.  After the rapids, the journey was uneventful and straightforward.  Beautiful homes lined the hillsides leading into Quebec City.

The Port Marina de Quebec was entered via a short lock and a swing bridge.  We were fortunate to arrive on high tide when both were opened and we easily entered the marina. With excellent help, we were securely docked.  After a quiet evening on the boat, we planned to explore the following day one of North America’s oldest and most beautiful cities.

August 9, 2014                               Quebec City, Canada

Our galley supplies needed replenishing and we were told a large grocery store was near.  The sky was blue and the temperature was cool.  We decided to walk.  Checking with a fellow walker, we learned the renowned farmer’s market was across the boat basin from the marina and much closer than the grocery store.  Dark clouds had suddenly come into view and rain drops began to fall.  We made the market (fully enclosed) just as a tremendous thunderstorm hit the area.

The market was clean, organized, and crowded.  Numerous booths held an array of gorgeous raspberries, blueberries, strawberries, and other fruits that looked as if they had just come from the harvest.  Vegetables were equally fresh and blemish-free.  Freshly baked pies, tartes, cookies, and breads added wonderful smells to the place.  A large formmage booth was crowded with buyers.  Refrigerator cases displayed an assortment of pork, lamb, chicken, and seafood.  Splendid flowers filled booths and added beauty to the scene.  It was truly a feast for the eyes!  After shopping, we carried bags laden with fresh fruits, vegetables, smoked fish, and a gorgeous blueberry-cranberry pie back to the boat. 

 

August 10-11                                  Quebec City, Canada

On a beautiful Saturday morning, we returned to the market area and caught the sightseeing bus.  Although it was not yet noon, the streets were crowded with walkers, bikers, and automobiles.  The annual festival celebrating the establishment of New France had attracted hordes of visitors to Quebec.

The bus had an excellent narrator (switching effortlessly from French to English) who gave a history of the area as he described the many sights along the way.  We moved slowly due to traffic and many streets being closed for the festival activities.  Everywhere we saw flowers.  Quebec City takes great pride in its many gardens and parks.  Quebec, the only walled city in North America north of Mexico, has been declared a UNESCO heritage site.

We left the tour in the Lower Town (below the Chateau Frontenac in Upper Town) to walk the cobbled streets.  With the tourists were many costumed citizens portraying various roles from life in the eighteenth century.  Booths along the lanes sold a variety of handcrafted items and a hurdy-gurdy player provided music.

Our return to the Upper Town and Place Royal near the Hotel Frontenac was by funicular.  This interesting conveyance climbed the steep hill in about two minutes and saved us from much arduous effort. 

At ten o’clock that evening, we were treated to a fabulous fireworks display only a short distance from our marina.  With a “super moon” overhead (the moon was very near the earth this weekend and exceptionally bright), clear skies, and no wind, it was a wonderful event and a highlight of the festival.

Sunday was a quiet day on the boat as we visited with others in the marina and observed the arrival of the Majestic, a 201 feet yacht.  The internet told us it had been owned originally by a Walmart heiress and had been sold for millions of dollars in order to purchase an even larger and more luxurious vessel.

The bright yellow and blue peaked tents next to the marina were the summer home of Cirque du Soleil.  We bought tickets on line for an early Sunday performance and walked across the marina parking lot into the entrance of the main tent.  Could not have been easier!  The show was titled Kurios, A Cabinet of Curiosities and like other Cirque du Soleil shows we have seen, it was exceedingly clever with a Surrealistic touch in the sets and props.  The costuming, lighting, and special effects were fabulous.  The acrobats, juggler, and trapeze performers were amazing and the comedy was delightful.  Precision, skill, and talent with a wonderful French flair!

 

August 12-14                                  Cap-a-l’Aigle, Canada

Monday was a day of preparation.  Efforts to repair the leaking dinghy were not successful.  A fellow marina dweller gave us the name of a local Zodiac distributor who agreed to come the next day.  As weather reports were not favorable, we would spend another day in port and concentrate on needed repairs.

Wednesday morning the dinghy repair crew arrived before 8:00 AM.  Within a short time, they had discovered a leak and repaired it.  Afterwards, we re-fueled only minutes before the rain began.  It continued all day without pause.   We were delighted to finally receive via UPS the two connections needed for the ladder.  David had a very bad cold.  He needed lots of rest and TLC.  We took advantage of the weather delay to help him recuperate.

Thursday morning was rainy but the wind was slight.  We decided to start the second part of our journey.  After a brief wait for the lock to open with the high tide at 7:30 AM, we once again entered the St. Lawrence River and headed eastward.  My new charts were unfolded next to the GPS.  Our route was charted to Cap-a-l’Aigle about 70 nm from Quebec City.

With light rain, little wind, and limited visibility due to fog, we left the marina.  Following the northward route around the Ile d’ Orleans, a large island often referred to as “the breadbasket of Canada” because of the abundance of produce it grows for the province, we passed numerous small villages adorned with high-steepled churches.   We were delighted to have a view of the magnificent Montmorency Falls just past the huge span of the Pont Ile d’ Orleans.  The falls are taller than Niagara Falls by more than 90 feet.

After leaving the sheltered north passage around Ile d’ Orleans, we entered the wide span of the St. Lawrence and immediately experienced a dramatic change.  The water became very choppy and, as noted on our GPS, we were experiencing tide rips.  David’s plan to nap was aborted when I called him back to the helm due to the rough water.  The stabilizers on the boat were no match for the strong waves that lifted us and then dropped us with a resounding crash.  The rain continued and visibility was limited.  At 2:25 PM, we finally arrived at our marina at Cap-a-l’Aigle.  Sheltered behind a formidable stone breakwater, this small marina was a welcome haven for two weary travelers who had been buffeted by hard hitting waves for more than three hours.

To our dismay, one of the dock helpers accidentally dropped one of our new connections for the ladder into the water.  Fortunately, we had ordered two but now we had no spare.  David wisely devised a solution for this very difficult, expensive and seemingly persistent problem by attaching the connections to the boat with wire.

 

August 15                             Taduassac, Canada

We left the marina on a beautiful sunny day heading for Taduassac at the headwaters of the Saguenay River, the focal point of an enormous marine conservation area with a population of seals, turtles, and whales.  Taduassac was a charming community surrounding a beautiful and active harbor.  A magnificent red-roofed hotel was the focal point of the area and lovely and impressive homes dot the adjacent verdant hillsides. 

Returning to the boat from the marina office, we observed for the first time, the shredded Bimini top of our boat.  Somehow, we had not seen the damage resulting from the storm and winds of the previous day.  Further inspection showed the dinghy had been moved more than two feet from its stand and its cover was hanging precariously off the side. 

I mounted the console of the bridge and managed with scissors to untangle and remove the canvas.  We hired help to aid us in restoring the dinghy to its proper position.  To our dismay, the repair in Quebec had been unsuccessful and the dinghy was once again deflated.

We have always ignored whale watching tours because of the expense and the uncertainty of seeing whales, however, fellow boaters had rhapsodized about seeing numerous whales and porpoises in this area.  We decided to try a whale watching trip and bought tickets at the marina in Taduassac.

Our whale watching excursion was a disappointment.  We saw the fins of several whales but nothing surfaced to awe and amaze us.  The three-hour trip became very boring and the short cruise into Saguenay Fjord produced no memorable sea animal sights. Dinner at the marina restaurant also was disappointing.  We could have done much better with snacks on the boat.  Not one of our best days!

 

August 16                             Matane, New Brunswick, Canada

David was adamant we must adhere to a schedule that would bring us into Halifax by August 26 so we could return to Texas for the first football game of his alma mater Baylor University in its new stadium.  This meant we might have to continue despite less than favorable weather. 

 Leaving Taduassac before 8:00 AM, we soon captured the speed of a high tide.  Wind was minimal and at times, the water was glassy smooth.  The incredible contrast of blues in the sky, clouds, and water was amazing.  It seemed to be a perfect day for making the long cruise across the wide expanse of the St. Lawrence from its northern to southern shore. 

With smooth seas and a boat that was performing exceptionally well, we relaxed and took turns at the helm.  Unfortunately, this serenity changed abruptly about three hours from our destination.  Wind velocity increased considerably, a light rain began, and the water became choppy.  The boat was tossed as we fought the wind, waves, and current. 

Matane Marina had English-speaking help and we were able to have them meet us on arrival at their fuel dock.  As diesel fuel is not available at some marinas on our journey, we chose to fuel at every opportunity.  With a strong cross-wind, David had difficulty bringing the boat into the small, rustic fuel dock.   The dock help was inadequate for the task.   Suddenly several boaters appeared to help us secure the boat.  Later, they appeared again despite the rain to help us dock in our slip.  They were gone almost before we could express our gratitude.

August 17                                         Sainte Anne des Mont, Canada

After our previous arduous day, we chose to make a short cruise of six hours to Sainte Anne des Mont, one of Canada’s premier winter playgrounds.  We had a great day for cruising with sun and little wind.  The scenery was spectacular.  The verdant hills were dotted with small villages, red-roofed cottages, and steepled churches. 

Behind a formidable breakwater of huge granite boulders, the marina provided excellent shelter and great docking facilities.  With only 15-amp electricity available, we kept our generator running for electricity on board.   As it is very quiet and uses little fuel, this was not a problem.  Docking was again facilitated by the aid of several boaters who assisted the lone harbor master.  Dockage fee was only $1.25 per foot!  We loved the low marina charges in Canada.

We left the boat to explore the adjacent area with its locally renowned seafood restaurant and enormous Catholic Church made of native stone.  Few amenities were near the marina.  The area was nondescript with a several small stores and government offices.  Most of the businesses seemed to be located on the long highway that extended for miles along the mountainside.

 

August 18          Riviere de Reynaud, Canada

We were determined to make the 90 nm journey to Riviere de Reynaud despite weather reports that showed light rain and winds.  We left the dock at 7:30 AM and were delighted to have great visibility to view the charming villages we passed.  The mountains became taller and the granite cliffs steeper as we continued on our route.

Fog suddenly enveloped us and soon we were navigating via GPS and radar in zero visibility.  The wind was not a significant factor so we continued complacently on our route.  Everything changed about an hour from our destination as the wind considerably increased, the water became very choppy, and the boat was buffeted by waves.  Not a pleasant experience!

The harbor at Riviere de Reynaud was protected behind another huge stone breakwater.  The marina shared dockage with the large commercial fishing fleet that had made this a mecca for seafood processors.  We were assigned a great place on the new dock.  Robert, a recently arrived sailor, volunteered to secure our lines.

The rain continued and we were restricted to the boat.  The lovely village ahead of the marina was beckoning but we were reluctant to venture that far in the rain.   After dark, we saw a large lighted cross next to a small church on the hill.  The village, situated at the foot of the mountain, was postcard-perfect. 

August 19                                                        Chandler, Canada

Chandler seemed to be the perfect place to stop before we crossed the Bay of Chaleurs, noted for its high afternoon winds.  Morning rain and wind momentarily caused us to consider staying docked but a favorable report from Chandler encouraged us to continue our journey.

We were instructed that shallow water dictated entrance to the marina had to be on a high tide.  We arrived an hour too early and floated about in the bay noting the marked and many unmarked shoals in the area.   We made plans to take a wide arc around them upon departure.

The marina, reportedly a full-service marina, was very small, very tight and, as reported, exceedingly shallow.  The fuel dock was at the end of the marina and with the help of numerous dock help, David expertly parallel-parked our boat, which appeared gigantic compared to the others in the marina.  Diesel fuel supplies were limited and we drained their tanks with 300 gallons.

Simon, the dockmaster, invited us to his sailboat for rum and coke.  We spent a delightful hour with him and three of his friends.   They gave us considerable information about the small marinas in this area.  Marinas were government funded and staffed by volunteers.  Simon was a lawyer who specialized in labor negotiations but he loved sailing and was thrilled to be a volunteer for part of the summer at the marina in Chandler.

Dinner was at the marina restaurant which had an incredible view over the breakwater to the wide expanse of water beyond.  The service and food were excellent.  We spent a delightful evening recalling sixty years previously when we were at our wedding rehearsal dinner in Cleburne, Texas.   We shared many memories of happy times and wonderful people who contributed to our lives since that memorable day sixty years before.

August 20                                         Caraquet, New Brunswick, Canada

As promised, at 9:00 AM and high tide, our dock help arrived to help us negotiate the difficult maneuvering required to take our large boat from the restricted dock space.  With his usual calm and skillful piloting, David quickly moved us away from the dock and turned expertly into the large expanse of the St. Lawrence.  The weather was great and we were excited to have a long day of cruising.

The GPS was programmed to take us past the shoals.  I brought in the fenders and knelt down to secure the small ladder we left attached to the hull when a tremendous jolt pushed me forward toward an opening off the deck.   I grasped the railing and held myself in place.  A horrible noise indicated we had hit a shoal, not marked and not indicated on the GPS, hidden by the high tide. 

We were immediately aware we had sustained prop damage.  Knowing there was no help at Chandler, we decided to continue our journey.  Our maximum speed was 7 knots without incurring considerable vibration.  David checked our manual, Cheryl Barr’s The Down East Circle Route, and found mention of a shipyard at Caraquet located across the Bay of Chaleurs.  Despite frantic searching, we could not find a contact number or reference for the shipyard.  (Note:  Later we learned the name of the shipyard was in French not English and was not listed in Caraquet.)

The weather was calm and despite increasing difficulty, we continued slowly to Caraquet. Although very concerned about the damage to the boat, we refused to be deterred from appreciating the beautiful shoreline scenery.  We were delighted to see the huge hulk of Perce Rock, a red granite monolith extending far into the water and one of the most photographed sites in Canada. Across from it was the I’lle-Bonaventure, a favorite site for birdwatchers who come to view huge population of northern gannets and other birds that nest here every summer.

 We saw the shipyard as we neared Caraquet but had no means to make contact.  We continued to the harbor marina, a rustic facility with predominately fishing boats on their docks.  The harbor master saw our boat and told us we were too large to dock there.  I pleaded we had sustained damage and needed to come in.  He graciously came to hold our lines and help secure our 58’ boat into a dock meant for a 30’vessel.  Hearing our tale of woe, he called the shipyard and made arrangements for us to be there at 8:30 AM to be pulled and have our props replaced with the spares we had on board.

Eager to leave the confines of the boat, we climbed the treacherous ladder from the dock onto the wharf and walked four blocks to the grocery store and the nearest ATM.  The wharf, only four feet behind our aft deck, was a popular nocturnal place.  Cars, motorcycles, and bicycles came slowly through the area as the drivers perused the boats in the marina. Several friendly folks stopped to have conversation with the visitors from Texas.

August 21-23                                  Caraquet, New Brunswick, Canada

We were at the Centre Naval du Nouveau Brunswick before 8:30 AM.  Help was waiting for us.  We quickly were placed in the slings for haul out and moved to the adjacent dock.  In a short time, the prop workers arrived to survey the damage.  We were distressed to learn the shafts, both props, and the port stabilizer unit was damaged.  The anterior and posterior hull had damage and water was coming through a small opening in the bow.  We were immediately impressed with the skill and knowledge of the people who were trying to help us. 

Fiberglass workers were on site and began to repair within a few hours.  The shaft and props were removed and taken to another facility.  The Bottom Line, held aground with blocks under the keel and securing units, was a pathetic sight standing alone in the vast shipyard area.  When the yard help learned we wanted to board the boat, they mounted a large metal ladder to the deck so we could safely and easily come aboard.  We wanted to stay on the boat rather than go to a motel.  Electricity was provided and we had plenty of water.  The shipyard agreed to let us stay on the boat (highly unlikely in the U.S. due to OSHA and insurance limitations).  

David’s efforts to rent a car were unsuccessful.  One of the workmen insisted on leaving his very nice pickup for us to drive and we were given keys to the gates if we wanted to come in after the facility had closed.  We were again overwhelmed by the trust and generosity of Canadians.

We heard no word about the shafts until after 5:00 PM on Friday.  They had been repaired and the crew would arrive at 7:00 AM to install them.  Although it was Saturday, the shipyard personnel would be present three hours later to take the boat from the dock back into the water.  We were awed by the rapidity and efficiency of the workers.

August 23                                      Miramichi, New Brunswick, Canada

As promised, the prop and shaft repair crew arrived at 7:00 AM and quickly began installing the straightened shafts and the spare props.  Despite the heavy weight of the props, stored in the hold below our galley, they were removed without incident using a hoist mounted next to the port side of the boat.

At 10:30, I was told I must leave the boat so it could be put it back into the water.  Another crew from the shipyard arrived to make possible this unusual Saturday departure.  We were grateful and humbled by their concern for us on a day when they ordinarily would not be working.  The boat was lowered into the water and as I started to board I was stopped by the foreman of the crew who gave me the European kiss on both cheeks.  The other men followed and I felt like a prom queen!!  As we waved farewell, the feeling of gratitude for once again being on our journey was indescribable.  

Marinas on the Northumberland Strait are limited in depth and dockage size.  As we left Caraquet late (almost noon), we had few choices for our evening stay.  Although it was located more than twenty miles upriver, Miramichi seemed to be a good choice.  The Bottom Line is 18 meters in length and most marinas in the area offered little dockage for boats more than 15 meters.

We turned into the Miramichi River at 7:00 PM.  The GPS indicated we would arrive at the marina by 9:00 PM.  This would be just before the last light was gone.  Marked by red and green lighted buoys, the river channel was twisting and shallow.  We had to slow our speed and the sun disappeared about thirty minutes before we reached our destination. David proceeded without incident to Station Wharf Marina, a rustic facility, located just ahead of the giant Centennial Bridge that spanned the river.  As promised, the dockmaster and several helpers were on the dock waiting for us.  

 

August 24                                         Bouctouche, New Brunswick, Canada

Once again, we needed to re-fuel.  John, the dockmaster of Station Wharf Marina, met us before 9:00 AM and moved the boat by lines into place at the nearby gas dock.  At low tide, we were showing less than four feet below the stern and did not want to engage the props.  John earlier had called his fuel distributor to deliver more diesel as his supply was less than 400 gallons.  Despite being Sunday, the distributor promptly responded.  Fueling took a very long while as the pump was slow and we held more than 500 gallons.

 Our wait provided time to engage in conversation with marina staff and learn more about the area and its people.   Station Wharf is scheduled to be updated in the near future.  John and other investors have obtained a large grant from the Canadian government and will expand and improve all the facilities.  Miramichi River is a renowned fly-fishing destination and popular with sportsmen.

Shortly after 11:00 AM, John and volunteer help from the marina manned the lines and pulled us back to the main dock and deeper water.  They stood waving as we departed.  The long journey down the river and out into the Strait was delightful as we viewed lovely, pristine homes and small churches.  Sandy beaches lined the shores and we saw many families with children in bathing suits enjoying the pleasant warm weather.

After several hours of smooth, uneventful cruising, we encountered hundreds of plastic markers denoting lobster traps.  Our line cutters (the bane of lobster fishermen) had been damaged when we hit the shoal and removed by the shipyard crew.  Lobster traps are secured by heavy lines (sometimes chains) which can wrap around a prop, cause the engine to seize, and result in serious damage.  We were VERY careful to avoid them.

The channel to Bouctouche was winding and shallow although we had been assured the depth was sufficient for our boat.  We tended to become anxious when our depth finder indicated less than five feet.  After 4nm, we reached Sawmill Point, a beautiful small marina located in a lush green park and featuring a magnificent clubhouse/office.  Our dock help was another guy named John who could not have been more gracious.  For the first time in four days, we had access to internet and promptly made use of it to catch up on mail and personal matters.  Dinner was on the boat with a beautiful sunset off the aft deck.

August 25                 Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada

John arrived early as promised to assist us in pumping the holding tank.  Red lights in the heads had indicated the tank was almost full.  We now had taken care of all the basics.  Our holding tank was empty, our fuel tanks were full, and we had an ample supply of water on board. 

Upon reaching the Strait, I went to the aft deck to check if all lines had been secured and discovered we had snagged a long length of rope which may have been adrift in the marina.  As this posed a potential danger to the props, David stopped the engines and brought in the rope with a bow hook.  One end was caught, presumably on the damaged bow thruster, but did not seem to impair its function.  The rope became disengaged shortly afterwards and we were able to pull it from the water.

Carefully evading the lobster traps in the Strait, we charted our course across to Prince Edward Island.  Charlottetown is the largest town on PEI and is considered a prime destination for boaters because of its large harbor and many attractions. Enroute we were excited to cruise under the magnificent Confederation Bridge which unites PEI with New Brunswick and extends more than eight miles across the Strait.  With its long row of column-like supports and                arc-shaped spans, it resembles a Roman aqueduct.  Recognized as an outstanding engineering accomplishment, it is both beautiful and functional.

As we approached Charlottetown, the wind considerably diminished and our cruise was smooth and straightforward.  Heeding warnings, we carefully avoided the large shoal extending into the entrance channel.  With deep water, we easily docked at Charlottetown Yacht Club, located only a few blocks from the bustling downtown area.  Ready to get off the boat, we quickly walked to the main street and perused the small shops lining the sidewalks, the war memorials in the park, and the few historical sites.  We also read the posted restaurant menus to find the best place for the famous PEI mussels.

As the provincial capital, Charlottetown had many court buildings and offices for solicitors/attorneys.  It also had a large and impressive cultural center and art museum featuring mostly regional artists.  Fans of Anne of Green Gables, a popular book for girls, make pilgrimages to the local shops which stock merchandise related to the book and to the play that tells the story of this small heroine of PEI.

 The streets were busy with cars, motorcycles, and people, many whom appeared to be tourists who came to Charlottetown by the large chartered buses parked nearby.  Sim’s Corner was our restaurant choice for dinner.  An outdoor table was available and we enjoyed some great people-watching.  David had oysters and declared them to be superb. We both enjoyed large bowls of mussels in garlic and white wine sauce.  PEI mussels are noted for their distinctive flavor and tenderness.  Ours did not disappoint.

August 26                                      Port Hawkesbury, Canada 

We wanted to leave early for our long journey to the Canso Causeway.  Looking back on our previous lock experiences, we would allow plenty of waiting time. The water was smooth and the wind was light.  We easily crossed the Strait toward the Canso Causeway and our last lock.  Shoreline scenery was pastoral with small homes, churches, and plowed fields. 

We were astonished to come upon a pod of whales breeching in front of our boat.  From our manual, we deduced from their size and identifying characteristics, they were Pilot Whales.  This species grows to about 20 feet in size, black in color, have a highly rounded forehead, and are very gregarious.  David slowed the boat to a stop and we stood on deck in awe as they playfully flirted with us.  We counted about 20 members of the pod.  Their actions were so rapid we were unable to take good photos of this amazing sight.

Communication with the lock was instantaneous and we were advised to enter upon arrival.  As the lock goes up only about six feet, it ordinarily requires little time to enter and exit.  We were the exception.  One of the lock gates had been affected by the heat (it was a warm 85-degree day) and refused to close.  We were advised to secure our lines and wait.  After almost an hour, the problem had been solved and we were waved goodbye by the lock personnel.

Throughout the day, we were frustrated by our inability to reach anyone at the Port Hawkesbury Marina listed in our manual as nearest to the lock.   Numerous calls were answered and hung up without communication.  After considerable research, we located another number and made more calls.  As Port Hawkesbury was the only stop with fuel for a considerable distance, it was imperative we reach them.  As we waited for the lock to open, we received a call to tell us the marina would be expecting us.  What a relief!

The marina was actually a public wharf managed by a local yacht club and volunteer help.  It was easily accessible by an extended boardwalk popular with townspeople.  We needed fuel and their tank held an inadequate supply.  Walter, a member of the yacht club arranged for a fuel truck to meet us at 7:30 AM.  Throughout the evening, we were greeted many times by friendly folks who wandered to the wharf and asked about our boat and Texas.

August 27                          Goldboro, Nova Scotia, Canada

The fuel truck arrived on time and with a fast pump, we took on more than 500 gallons of fuel in less than ten minutes.  We left the dock before 8:00 AM on a beautiful sunny day with little wind.  Weather reports had indicated the wind would increase so we were expecting choppy waves when we entered the Atlantic. 

Our destination was a recommended marina at Liscombe.  This would be a journey of about eight hours.  Communication with Liscombe was not encouraging.  They had no space for us and mooring was questionable.  At 18 meters, our boat was too large for many small docks and we were reluctant to anchor.  Liscombe promised to call us later in the day to give us updated information. 

Before exiting Chedabucto Bay and entering the Atlantic, we experienced a marked increase in the wind and waves.  This continued without pause and we were battered as the bow of the boat was lifted high into the air and then dropped with considerable force.  We had “battened down the hatches” but furniture was moved, books thrown from the shelves, and a cabinet door in the galley shaken loose.  We were confined most of the day to the helm as it was too dangerous to go below.

We were hopeful the waves would diminish as the hours passed but this did not happen.  We both agreed we had experienced our worst day ever on a boat.  At 4 PM, we had not been contacted by Liscombe and were reluctant to continue another two hours to an uncertain destination.  Goldboro offered a public wharf in an easily accessible location.  Quickly changing our course, we entered a lovely protected bay and proceeded the short distance to a small dock.  With relief, we pulled into the one available space and our lines were secured by one of the fishermen on the dock.

Goldboro, an idyllic community of lovely homes and churches tucked into the lush forests surrounding the bay, had an impressive community center on the wharf.  Ladies inside were selling ice cream and snacks to the many wharf visitors.  Goldboro has only 35 residents but it is a popular local destination.  We were delighted to find this refuge from the storm.  Our dock fee was $29.00.  We would recommend Goldboro to other mariners as a great stop on the way to Halifax because of its easy accessibility (no shoals and only 2.5 nm inland) and natural beauty.

 

August 28                                      Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Weather reports indicated we had a one-day window of good weather before the onset of high winds from the hurricane off the coast of Newfoundland, apparently the cause of our previous day’s violent storm.  We left the dock at 7:15 AM for a long day of cruising.  Halifax was 100 nm from Goldboro and we hoped to be there before 6:00 PM.

Exiting the bay, we headed into the Atlantic on a course that would avoid the many shoals indicated on the GPS and charts.   The waves initially were choppy but lacked the violent turbulence of the previous day.  We could handle it without difficulty!  As predicted from weather reports, winds greatly decreased as we neared Halifax.  Our last three hours were on a glassy, calm sea.

We had been in contact with Joel at Halifax Waterfront for more than a week arranging for extended dockage.  We would leave on August 30 to fly to Texas.  The boat would remain in Halifax for our return on September 21.  Joel had reserved a great docking place for us.  We were in a wonderful position to observe the active waterfront scene.  As it was a warm, beautiful evening, there were many people visiting the nearby sites, playground areas, and souvenir shops.  The tall buildings of the city were only a block from us.  We were eager to explore Halifax.

 

August 29-30                               Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

As predicted, Friday was very gusty and cold.  After leaving the boat to check in at the marina office, we decided to remain on board and do some cleaning and needed small repairs.  Our tour of Halifax would wait for better weather.  We were docked beside a naval war monument that attracted many visitors despite the harsh weather.  Painted white and blue, the Sackville, one of fewer than 300 Corvettes manufactured in World War II and assigned to protect supply vessels from roaming German U-Boats, had been restored, designated as a war monument and docked in Halifax.

Although we had been onboard since May 24 (except for 10 days for trips to Texas and Belgium), David and I both expressed reluctance to leave our beautiful boat.  We were comfortable and content; however, our strong desire to see family, friends, and home (and attend the Baylor football game) were incentives to leave.

On Saturday, we left keys and instructions with Joel and departed for Texas.  It was a beautiful sunny day and bagpipe music was being played on the dock.  It was tempting to remain. We loved our visit to Canada and were looking forward to returning the following month to complete our journey.

 

September 21-23                       Halifax, Nova Scotia

It was sunny when our plane landed but dark clouds moved in quickly.  The sky began to darken and the wind increased.  Our taxi driver informed us a large storm was on the way with a prediction of hours of rain.  As we unloaded our suitcases from the taxi, the first raindrops began to fall.  We hurried to the nearby dock and hoisted everything on board as quickly as we could.  The rain came in torrents just as we closed the boat door.

We quickly checked the refrigerators and freezers to find all was well.  The interior of the boat looked great.  Joel came by to welcome us back.  We had agreed to pay him to watch over the boat during our absence and we were pleased to find he had done a good job.  We were soon settled in, watching TV, and enjoying a seafood pasta dinner on board.  The rain and wind continued for hours but we were securely tied to the dock and shielded by the bulk of the large WWII ship next to us.

Monday was sunny and beautiful.  We walked seven blocks to a large grocery store adjacent to the cruise ship terminal.  Three massive cruise ships filled the area.  September and October are the busiest months for cruising trips to Nova Scotia and Halifax is grateful for their considerable boost the local economy.

Although our list for shopping was small, our cart was filled and overflowing.  David is an impulse buyer and loves to try new items.  We needed a taxi to transport us and our many bags back to the boat.  With filled cabinets, refrigerator, and freezer, we were well provisioned for the rest of our journey.

Joel arrived at five o’clock as promised to install the new waste disposal unit I had brought from home.  Ours had not worked for some time and I missed the convenience.  With David’s supervisory help, Joel did a great job of installation.  Another problem solved!

We took advantage of another sunny (but cool) day to take a lengthy tour of Halifax.  The driver, dressed in full Scottish regalia, was an excellent guide.  He told us details of the great explosion of 1917 and the Titanic tragedy in 1912.  We visited the Fairhaven Cemetery where many of the Titanic victims are buried.  Always a site for tourists, it has had increased popularity since the blockbuster movie about the Titanic’s sinking was released in 2007.

After the tour, I visited the small National Gallery of Nova Scotia.  Their collection is limited to mostly regional artists but one exhibit is truly outstanding.  The work of Maud Lewis is astonishing and mesmerizing.  A tiny, African-American woman, severely crippled by arthritis, who lived her life in extreme poverty, Maud Lewis was compelled to paint.  Lacking canvas and paper, she painted on every surface in her home, including walls, floor, stove, ceiling, tables, etc.  Her small one-room house has been moved into a gallery of the museum and is surrounded by her paintings.  It is a scene of beauty and jubilant expression.  Although she was untrained, Maud Lewis was not a primitive painter.  She possessed great skill in color, composition, and perspective.  She achieved some recognition before her death but did not live to enjoy the fame she has today.

We were fortunate the Maritime Museum of Nova Scotia, located on the waterfront in front of our dock, was open late and free on Tuesday evenings.  With extensive displays of Halifax history and many models of the large seagoing vessels that once cruised in the area, it was an impressive and interesting place to visit.  Black and white photographs of the devastation caused by the explosion of 1917 were almost unbelievable.  Everything was leveled for miles in the southern part of the city.  Many people were killed and thousands were injured. The State of Massachusetts responded with massive amounts of medical assistance and construction help.  Since 1917, the people of Nova Scotia, in gratitude, have sent a large evergreen tree to Boston for its city Christmas tree.

 

September24-25                            Lunenburg, Nova Scotia

Weather reports indicated favorable winds for our departure from Halifax but we saw whitecaps in the harbor.  David kept checking the internet and assured me we would be OK.  I insisted on waiting and by 11:00 AM, we could see improvement and decided to start our journey to Lunenburg.

 As promised, the waves were no problem and the wind decreased to 5 knots.  Cruising near the shore, the scenery was spectacular.  We saw lovely villages surrounded by thick forests of towering evergreens situated on white beaches or rocky shores.  It was postcard perfect!

We arrived at our dock at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic in Lunenburg only minutes before closing at 5:00 PM and were welcomed with great help to secure our lines.  Eager to walk about, we promptly left the boat for a quick tour of this charming little town.  Situated on a high hill above the sea, Lunenburg is an architectural treasure of colorful nineteenth century homes and buildings.  Settled by German, Swiss, and French farmers, who quickly became shipbuilders and fishermen, the town reflects the prosperity and traditions of its founders.  Lunenburg is remarkably intact because it was spared fires and natural disasters which devastated many towns of that period.  It has also benefited from the pride in heritage of its residents, many whose descendants continue to live or own property here.  In 1995, Lunenburg was named a UNESCO Heritage Site, the first in North America.

A horse and carriage ride was a great way to tour the town without struggling to climb the steep hills.  Our driver was a charming lady who enlivened her historical narrative with many puns (and apologized for none of them!).  The imposing black and white academy building situated atop the hill on expansive grounds was the public school for many years.  It would re-open soon as a school for musicians.  Lunenburg’s churches were impressive and most continue to have active congregations.

On Thursday, we had to move the boat about a hundred yards to another docking area so we could receive fuel.  A truck supplied us with approximately 500 gallons of diesel fuel.  We would be OK for the remainder of the journey.  The driver of the truck was very helpful in finding a length of special hose needed to repair our waste pump out system.  David spent most of the afternoon deep in the hold lying atop the damaged props installing the new hose and several needed replacement parts.  He emerged sore but victorious.  It worked!

The day ended with a spectacular sunset filling the sky with vibrant colors and lingering for a very long time.   We were pleased to have dinner on the boat so we could enjoy this extraordinary sight.

 

September 26                              Shelburne, Nova Scotia

We departed Lunenburg only minutes after 8:00 AM.  The bay was completely calm and flags on the dock were barely moving.  We were hoping this would continue when we reached the open sea.  To our amazement and delight, the sea was smooth as glass all the way to Shelburne, a journey of approximately 85 nm.  Cruising away from shore to avoid any shoals, we could still view the natural beauty of Nova Scotia with its rocky shores, sandy beaches, and thick forests of tall evergreens.

The approach to Shelburne was straightforward with few hazards, all clearly marked.  The town was settled by British Loyalists who left the future United States after the Revolutionary War.  It became a shipbuilding and fishing center.  The population today is about 2,000 residents and empty storefronts were indicative of a struggling economy.  The small historical area with a few homes and buildings from the early nineteenth century was well-maintained and worth a visit.

We docked at the Shelburne Yacht Club and Marina and received a warm welcome from Mary, the assistant manager.  We were invited to the club’s weekly social event that evening.  After a long walk through the town to experience its history and architectural beauty of its many old homes, we decided to attend the yacht club party. 

The club’s main room was on the second floor of the marina office with a breathtakingly beautiful view of the bay from the deck.  A vaulted ceiling with dark wooden beams was decorated with numerous burgees from other yacht clubs.  It was very pretty and festive.  There was a bar and numerous tables and chairs, all filled with club members and guests enjoying drinks and food.  The menu of the evening was southern fried chicken with bacon cornbread, mashed potatoes, and buttered carrots.  One would have thought Paula Deen was in the kitchen!  Obviously, the menu was a hit for we ordered just as they ran out of food.  No problem.  We enjoyed the ambiance and the warm greetings of the members.

Dinner was on the boat as David re-read the instructions for installation and operation of the macerator/waste pump.  Although it seemed to work after being fitted with a new hose, it again would not pump out waste.  As many marinas in this area do not have pump out facilities, this created a problem for us.

 

September 27                              Yarmouth, Nova Scotia

With a prediction of good weather and mild winds, we decided to forego a day in port and continue to Yarmouth.  This was a 75 nm journey taking us from the south shore to the west shore of Nova Scotia.  We chose to make the “outside passage” to avoid the many shoals, islands, and shallow water we would encounter on the “inside passage.”  The route was longer but with fewer hazards and not dependent on tide levels.

The sea was rougher than it had been in the past two days but did not present a problem.   We took turns at the helm which gave us time for needlepoint, football watching (the TV worked great) and napping in the afternoon.

Yarmouth had a great marina with floating docks that easily accommodated us.  Fellow boaters came to greet us and aid in docking.  Throughout our journey, we have enjoyed the friendliness of Canadians and their willingness to assist us. 

Rudder’s is a local favorite for its excellent seafood and charming ambiance.  We were seated at a window on the second floor with a great view of the bay and the beautiful sunset.  I enjoyed pan-fried Digby scallops, a local favorite.

As Yarmouth is near the Bay of Fundy, noted for having the world’s greatest tide differential, the bay in front of the restaurant experienced a high tide which rapidly covered large areas of exposed muddy bottom.  We returned to the boat in time to watch the Baylor-Iowa State football game on TV and prepare for our long day of cruising across the Gulf of Maine to Southwest Harbor, the final destination for our 2014 epic journey.

 

September 29                              Southwest Harbor, Maine

Weather reports indicated the wind would be very mild in early morning but would become stronger near noon.  We left the dock only minutes after 7:00 AM and saw a beautiful sunrise as we exited from the bay into the ocean.  The water was smooth and we enjoyed several hours of idyllic cruising.

 We encountered a good current which increased our speed by almost two knots.  The afternoon brought a stronger wind but the waves remained friendly and we had an uneventful crossing of the Gulf of Maine.  Despite a sharp lookout throughout our journey, we did not see whales, often sighted in this area.

Our approach to Southwest Harbor brought back great memories as we passed Seal Harbor and Northeast Harbor, two of our favorite places in this area.  Carefully avoiding the many rocks and shoals, David skillfully brought us into dockage at Dysart’s Great Harbor Marina.  Micah, the harbormaster and Miller, our friend and helper from the previous summer, were ready to catch our lines and give us a warm welcome.  We were delighted to see both of them.

We quickly make arrangements for fresh lobster for dinner (pulled from the lobster pot adjacent to our dock and steamed in sea water by Miller).  Although he had planned to leave the next morning, Miller delayed his departure to spend two days helping us do minor repairs on the boat.  He and David have a great relationship and enjoy working together.

After warm conversations with our friends and a wonderful lobster dinner on the aft deck, we felt at home.  Southwest Harbor is a special place for us with many good memories from our past summers there. We both enjoyed a tremendous feeling of successful accomplishment knowing we had completed a journey of approximately 2,000 miles from New York through Canada to Maine.  It was a memorable experience!  We would leave The Bottom Line in storage at Southwest Harbor and return in May to enjoy the cool summer months and then complete our Downeast Circle journey back to New York Harbor.

2015

May 30-June 21                          Southwest Harbor, Maine

We were in frequent conversation with Hinckley Boat Storage in Southwest Harbor to be sure The Bottom Line would be fully commissioned and ready for our arrival on May 27.   A mishap occurred when the boat was being lifted from its storage dockage and minor damage resulted which required repairs.  Our arrival was delayed and plane tickets had to be changed.  On Saturday, May 30, we finally departed for Maine.  After three delays enroute, we arrived in Bangor and headed for Southwest Harbor.

Family members started arriving within a week.  Our granddaughter and her boyfriend, both college students, came first and could not wait to dine on lobster and blueberry pie served on the aft deck.  Awed by the charm of Mount Desert Island with its mountains, Victorian architecture, and coastal views, they seemed never to be bored.    One day was spent hiking several trails in Acadia National Park, another touring Bar Harbor, and then a morning in Northeast Harbor.

Our daughter Stephanie and her family members, John, Jackie, his wife and six-month old son, Lincoln arrived on schedule from the airport in Bangor with multiple bags, baby equipment, and a happy, smiling little boy.  We were eager to welcome them to Maine and The Bottom Line.

We served another welcoming dinner of five large lobsters, corn on the cob, new potatoes and blueberry pie with vanilla ice cream.  Maine lobster is a special treat for Texans and John had vowed to eat one each day of his visit.  They hiked some of the trails in the park during the day and stayed busy at night working jigsaw puzzles with amazing speed and skill.

Several days of rain and fog kept us onboard so we were excited when we finally were able to take out the boat on Friday, a beautiful sunny day.  We made a short cruise to Northeast Harbor and our guests were awed by the views from the water.  Mountains covered in lush forests rose from granite shores.  Impressive large “summer cottages” and charming little homes dotted the landscape.  The harbor was filled with boats of various sizes and types.

 Unfortunately, our lovely afternoon was marred by the discovered a new and very significant problem—our GPS failed to work properly.  As there were many shoals in the area, we were apprehensive cruising in waters we did not know well.   Back in the dock, we checked connections, read the manual, and went online for help.  Everything pointed to a satellite failure. Hinckley was notified as a disconnect may have occurred when the radar arch was lowered for storage.

June 22-28                                    Southwest Harbor, Maine

Sunny days provided additional changes in the floral displays of the area.  As the lilacs began to fade, the rhododendrons came into bloom and magnificent bushes of pink and white flowers were seen in most yards.  Fields of lavender lupine flowers, tall slender plants that grow wild and are as beloved in Maine as bluebonnets are in Texas, were spectacular.

After the departure of our guests, we began some serious maintenance work on the boat.  Miller, a long-time summer employee of the marina and a very talented craftsman, varnished the port and starboard doors into the aft deck, worked on the bridge to remove and replace badly applied caulking, and attempted to stop leakage from the hatch to the bridge.  Troy, an employee of nearby Ellis Boat Company, was simultaneously making necessary adjustments to install the new AC unit for the master stateroom (do you hear dollars going ching, ching, ching?)  The new unit, although the same brand, had modern technology which did not interface with the old system.  Troy was also a certified Garmin technician and he soon had our GPS working properly again.  We were fortunate to be in an area where skilled and knowledgeable workmen were available.  We have had past experience with some who were not and it proved to be expensive and inconvenient.

Our next visitors were Blake, our grandson and his four-year-old son Winn who came from Texas and immediately added excitement to our marina life.  They joined us when we took possession of our new dinghy and motor at the West Marine store near the marina.  Despite our best efforts, we had not been successful in repairing the old dinghy and its faulty motor.  With Winn in a new life jacket, we took a cruise around the harbor.  David was pleased with the new 11’ dinghy, and the 15 HP Lehr propane motor.

 

June 29-July 25                            Southwest Harbor, Maine

A new experience for all of us was a visit to the Classic Car Museum in Seal Harbor.  Formed from the private collection of Robert Cushing Paine, a wealthy Bostonian who loved this area, this small museum in a remote area of Mount Desert Island was a great surprise.  Comprised mostly of Victorian era and early twentieth century automobiles, the display featured magnificent touring cars, sporty convertibles, wooden trucks, and splendid prototypes of vehicles that had been in limited production.  

To Winn’s delight, we scheduled a carriage tour behind a lovely team of horses and explored the interior of the park without distraction from automobiles.  The Rockefeller family once owned a “summer cottage” with more than 100 rooms in Seal Cove and were major benefactors of Acadia National Park.  For more than twenty-six years, John D. Rockefeller, Jr. employed 300 men from the area to build carriage roads and bridges on his considerable property.  As part of this time was during the Depression when employment was scarce, he endeared himself to MDI residents.  Since those early times, the family has consistently donated land to Acadia National Park (a recent gift on the occasion of David Rockefeller’s 100^th birthday was 1,000 acres of some of their most pristine and scenic property.)  Today, the carriage roads are open to horses, bikers, hikers, and, of course, carriages. 

Our guests left for home on July 4 and missed the three magnificent firework displays (mostly simultaneously) that lighted the marina and surrounding harbor area.  We had a great view from the bridge of our boat.  For more than thirty minutes, a spectacular display of brilliant colors exploded above us.

Although Bar Harbor is the main attraction of the area, we prefer Southwest Harbor.  It is less touristy, very picturesque, and offers some excellent shops and restaurants, all distinguished by casual style and charm. There is nothing tacky!  The local bakery is famous for its fabulous pies and pizza.  A small pie shop is usually sold out by 2:00 PM and the popover shop is crowded every morning.  Southwest Harbor is a charming community with a welcoming spirit that embraces visitors.

We especially enjoyed attending performances at The Acadia Repertory Theater in Somesville (about five miles from SW Harbor).  Located in a simple wooden building that formerly housed the local chapter of Masons, the theater group maintains a reputation for quality and professionalism despite its rustic setting and limited resources.

During the summer months, the very active Southwest Harbor Library Association presents a number of events for bibliophiles.  Two weekends feature book sales of thousands of hardcover and paperbacks at prices determined by donation of the buyer.  In addition, mostly Maine artists, authors and craftsmen are featured in a popular lecture series.

Chamber music events are held periodically during the season in Bar Harbor and at the historic Claremont Hotel in Southwest Harbor.  The Land and Garden Preserve of Mount Desert Island offers extensive opportunities to visit three outstanding public gardens and attend related seminars.

We enjoyed our new dinghy and the propane motor.  Both were performing well.  Sunset cruises in the harbor became frequent excursions.  The water was smooth and the shifting light reminded us of why multiple artists came to Maine to paint.  The winters here reportedly can be gruesome but the summers are fantastic!

The delightful Flamingo Festival is an annual Southwest Harbor event honoring the beloved pink flamingo inventor, Don Featherstone, who lived in this area for many years.  One expects to see these tacky images in Florida but they are a prominent icon of this Maine community.   With spectators and participants alike dressed in pink clothing of varied kinds, the annual parade was the highlight of the weekend events.  Silly displays, goofy floats, impressive fire trucks and marching “bands” of children and adults paraded through the main street.  Store fronts were decorated with painted pink flamingos and lawns throughout the town competed with displays of the famous pink plastic birds designed by Featherstone years ago.  It was a fun day for everyone.

The floral scene continued to change.  Bushes of huge white oak leaf hydrangeas were seen everywhere and lovely yellow daisy-like wild flowers filled open spaces along the roads.  Most bridges had boxes of flowers on the sides and shops are decorated with pots of flowers at their entrances. Hanging baskets, small a month ago, were now overflowing with abundant displays of geraniums and verbenas.  Many homes had English gardens with beds of various flowering plants that respond with vigor to the cool but sunny weather.

 

July 26-August 19                          Southwest Harbor, Maine

We again hired Miller to help us complete work on the boat. Extensive exterior painting was needed for the window frames and door areas.  Painting a boat like ours requires experience and knowledge.  We were delighted find someone who possessed both.  Miller would paint the front windows, galley windows, and part of the bow area of the boat.  This project would take days of preparation involving considerable sanding taping, and caulking. 

Miller used brushes for the earlier part of the work but insisted spraying was the best way to finish the job.   Using the davit positioned on the bridge of the boat, he and David lifted the marina’s large air compressor from the dock to the bridge.  They attached long hoses to reach to the bow below.

On a lovely calm evening, we moved the boat to a mooring ball outside the marina to have ample space for spray painting without impacting other vessels.  The next morning, Miller and one of the marina employees arrived and began to work.  Before noon, three coats of paint had been applied. Most of the tape and paper were removed later in the afternoon after the sun had baked the finish to a hard shine.  We were excited to see how the bow area had been transformed.  It looked new!

We began our journey back into the marina and quickly realized we had a serious problem.  Our bow thruster was not working and we had to negotiate docking into a very small space between two large boats. It was a difficult maneuver.   To avoid damaging our boat or others, Miller acted as a “human bow thruster.” He jumped back and forth from our deck to the deck of the neighboring boat to push away the hull as David safely eased the boat into place.  We were awed by his agility and quick thinking!

 David diagnosed the bow thruster problem, ordered the needed part, and it was repaired within several days.  The bow thruster is essential equipment and we always want to keep a spare part on board for future emergencies.

For Maine, August is the BEST month.  The days of fog and rain decrease and the glorious days of sunny, cool weather with incredible blue skies begin to dominate the scene.  Acadia National Park is a popular destination for boaters, kayaks, hikers, bird-watchers, and people like us who love the scenery, people, and food of the region.  The lines are long on the highway, the no-vacancy signs are prevalent at the many bed-and-breakfasts and the shops are packed with tourists.

The season is short for the delicious wild blueberries harvested in Northern Maine and Mainers as well as tourists line up to purchase them.  Bakeries and restaurants freeze them in season so they will have ample supply for the many months when they are not available.  Smaller and sweeter than blueberries we can buy in Texas, they are a special treat. 

David and I took a final dinghy journey to Soames Sound and once again admired the beauty of this exceptional place.  Seals are often seen in this area but we did not see any on this trip.  With a bottle of wine and a few snacks, we lingered in the area for a sentimental farewell to our wonderful summer in Maine.  On the following day, we brought the dinghy up on the dock and used a power washer to clean it of the algae and gunk accumulated during its prolonged stay in the water.  Afterwards, we attached it to the davit, lifted it in place on the bridge, and covered it for the season.

Our son Dave arrived on August 19 and was eager to continue the journey he began with us in New York Harbor the previous year.  We celebrated our reunion with a traditional lobster dinner and freshly baked blueberry pie served on the aft deck.   Dave ate two lobsters and everything else in sight!   

August 20                                      Rockland, Maine

We were now ready to resume our long delayed Downeast Circle Cruise begun more than a year ago in New York. We had been up the Hudson River, through the Eire Canal, the Oswego Canal, the St. Lawrence River, around the Gaspe Peninsula, through the Northumberland Strait, around Nova Scotia and across the Strait of Maine to Southwest Harbor.  Now we would continue down the coasts of Maine, New Hampshire and Massachusetts to the Cape Cod Canal before heading through Long Island Sound to New York and the completion of our journey.

After fueling and pumping the heads, we were encouraged by the lifting fog to make a short cruise to Rockland, approximately five hours from Southwest Harbor.  Micah, Miller, and the young boys on staff, who had helped us often in the past months, came to untie our lines and wish us a safe journey.  David expertly moved the boat out of our tight dockage, past the ominous shoal at the entrance to the marina with the osprey nest on top of the marker and into the harbor.

Dave took the helm as we entered the channel leading into the Gulf of Maine.  I was eager for him to see the beautiful scenery in that area but blanketing fog soon obscured all views.  We were in fog all the way to Rockland.  Dave is experienced with radar and carefully navigated through the narrow passageways between the numerous islands on our route.

We had an easy dockage at Landings Marina in Rockland.  Dinner was at the Landings restaurant, a good choice for delicious food.  This was an auspicious day for us. One year before we had the accident in Canada which had caused considerable damage to the boat.  It was also our sixty-first wedding anniversary.  We chose to celebrate the latter event and our successful and safe journey to Rockland.

August 21                                      South Portland, Maine

 Dave remained at the helm for the five-hour journey to South Portland.  Intermittent fog continued to hide the beautiful scenery.  The journey was uneventful except for occasional sightings of porpoises playing in the water beside the boat.  More common in warm water, we were surprised to see them so far north.

As our goal was not sightseeing, we chose to avoid the crowded Portland Harbor area.  Spring Point Marina in South Portland was easily accessible.  The iconic lighthouse at Portland Head was clearly visible upon our arrival.  The massive fortifications built to protect the harbor during the War of 1812 are a prominent feature of the area.

August 22                                      New Castle, New Hampshire

In light rain, we made an early departure for Wentworth Marina in New Castle, New Hampshire, a five-star accommodation with excellent docks and service. Unlike the previous day, we had limited fog and following seas.  The five-hour cruise was scenic and uneventful.  Dave again remained at the helm throughout the day.

Wentworth Marina provided a courtesy car for guests and we were able to drive into Portsmouth.  The downtown streets were crowded with people enjoying the lovely weather. Portsmouth had an air of vitality and prosperity with many chic shops and restaurants.  We re-stocked he galley with a quick trip to a local grocery store.

August 23-24                               Boston, Massachusetts

Fog obscured our view from Wentworth Marina to Boston Harbor.  Dave showed some apprehension as we neared our destination.  Boston harbor is a busy shipping and recreational area and limited visibility can present a problem.   We were disappointed the fog obscured the incredible beauty of the harbor approach with the oldest lighthouse in the United States (and the only one still manned).

Waterboats Marina adjacent to Long Wharf is one of our favorite places.  Small and family-owned, it is immaculately maintained and efficiently operated.  We were docked near the entrance and had a great view of the harbor and the changing scene on the wharf next to us.  The marina is easily accessible to the historic areas of downtown and the North End with its wonderful Italian restaurants.

Dave had joined us here two years ago on the Fourth of July and had experienced with us the wonderful harbor scene as well as a heat wave.  On this visit, the weather was clear and pleasant after the fog lifted.  Eager to have some “real Italian food,” we walked to the North End for dinner.   Afterwards, we enjoyed a lengthy stroll through the area with its active night scene.  Streets and restaurants were busy with others, like us, happy to be in such an interesting place.  We chose to spend another day in Boston for extensive sightseeing, visiting museums and returning again to the North End for more authentic Italian cuisine.


August 25                                      Sandwich, Massachusetts

The following morning, I reluctantly took an early water taxi to Logan Airport for my flight to attend a meeting in Fort Worth. The airport was only minutes from our marina and the water taxi came to our dock.  What could be more convenient?  Dave and David would continue without me to New York where I would join them.  The early morning fog was lifting and the harbor was clearly visible.

Departing within minutes after I left the boat, The Bottom Line with Dave again at the helm and David as the navigator, left the dock. As fog was no longer a problem, they enjoyed the sights of the harbor and the receding city view. The route to Sandwich was plotted through some of the off-shore island channels to shorten the journey.  That route is challenging and requires very astute piloting.  Dave found it to be more interesting than the usual off-shore course.  The weather was favorable with light winds and smooth seas.  The five-hour voyage was easily accomplished.

Sandwich Marina is situated near the entrance of the Cape Cod Canal and is renowned as a welcome haven in stormy weather to escape the rough seas.  It is a pleasant place to dock but is far from any stores or good restaurants.  On an earlier visit, we found the seafood place nearby to be a dump with mediocre food and poor service.   Unfortunately, David reported it had not changed. On a recent automobile visit to the area, we had found the town of Sandwich to be a charming example of an historical New England village with many lovely homes and inns. 

August 26-27                               Port Jefferson, New York

After their short day of cruising from Boston to Sandwich, Dave and David decided to make a twelve trip to Port Jefferson, New York on the northern shore of Long Island.  Weather conditions were perfect as they made an early morning departure (after adding fuel).  

Danfordt’s Marina is adjacent to a lovely hotel with a popular restaurant and situated near the bustling downtown area.  On an earlier visit, we had chosen to be at the nearby city docks, which were fixed, not floating.   Low tide prevented us from safely exiting the boat several hours a day.  A major inconvenience!

Port Jefferson is an interesting and inviting place.  The surrounding area is an enclave of prosperity with old estates and large homes.  The guys were ready for a “down day” and some good food.  The hotel restaurant had a lovely terrace overlooking the water and great seafood.  A nearby Japanese restaurant served delicious sushi.  Port Jeff was a wonderful choice for R&R.

August 28-29                               Jersey City, New Jersey

The five-hour journey through Long Island Sound to New York City was a new experience for our son.   He was awed by the numerous scenic lighthouses, historic buildings, La Guardia Airport, Rikers Island (of Law and Order fame) and numerous small marinas which enliven the approach route to Manhattan.

 Hell’s Gate marks the confluence of Long Island Sound, Harlem River and East River and its eddies and strong currents can be dangerous to boaters.  The East River also has a strong current which can easily push boats into the stone walls along the banks or into numerous hazards in the water.  Fortunately, the powerful engines of The Bottom Line kept it on course. The view was magnificent as the Empire State Building, the Chrysler Building, United Nations and other iconic structures and familiar bridges became clearly visible as they neared the tip of Manhattan.

Turning starboard near the Statue of Liberty, Dave made the easy approach to Liberty Landing Marina.  Their assigned slip was adjacent to the park with a great view of New York skyscrapers from the aft deck. I arrived on Saturday afternoon after five days in Texas.  It was time to celebrate!  We had “crossed our wake” and completed the Downeast Circle Cruise.  Dinner was at Maritime Parc, the excellent seafood restaurant at the marina.  Our son had been with us at the beginning and at the end of the journey.  It had been a special time for us as a family. 

David and I had a wonderful feeling of accomplishment as well as many great memories.  Our Octogenarian Odyssey had shown us that we were still capable of expanding our knowledge, achieving our goals and realizing our dreams.